Mdina the silent city of Malta

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Today’s centre of Malta is Valletta and its surroundings, but this was only sometimes the case. Like Lanzarote Teguise, Malta’s original Capital was a medieval citadel: Mdina the silent city of Malta.

Mdina lies at the crossroads of buses, almost in the central part of the island, a short walk from Hal Lija, where I found the nicest Airbnb auntie on the island. Ham and eggs, chocolate, ham, cheese, or do you prefer a sweet breakfast?

Could any hotel match this?
Can any hotel compare to this?

Many Maltese also call Mdina the Silent City. I was soon to understand why this is so.

It's like walking in a ghost town
It’s like walking in a ghost town

The historic heart of Malta

Not knowing what it was all about, I set aside the rest of the early evening to explore the city along the Dingli Cliffs Trail. I had a nice 18km in my legs and little did I know that I’d be running another three in this town.

Mdina the silent city of Malta

Mdina was founded by the Phoenicians approximately 3,000 years ago. When the Romans took control of the city, they named it Melita. Today’s name Mdina (walled city), was only brought about by the Arabs in the 9th century after they fortified the town and separated it from its suburb, Rabat.

You walk through the streets like historical scenery
You walk through the streets like historical scenery

Mdina became the capital of Malta. At that time, it was also known as Cittá Notabile. When the Knights of Malta later decided to make Valletta the Capital, Mdina became Cittá Vecchia, i.e. “Old Town”.

Only a few old aristocratic families live here
Only a few old aristocratic families live here

Today, however, Mdina is nicknamed the “Silent City” because it is made up of quiet, almost deserted streets and stone houses. Only a few old Maltese aristocratic families live here, and the only people who occupy the town today are tourists.

He secretly hums Mahler's Adagietto from Death in Venice
He secretly hums Mahler’s Adagietto from Death in Venice

Bizarre. You’re walking all alone. You’re slowly humming Mahler’s Adagietto from Death in Venice.

None said a word when the film was premiered to the Hollywood studio bosses. They weren’t cathartic; they were shocked. One of them finally asked who did the soundtrack. “Gustav Mahler,” Visconti replied coldly. “Good, we should hire him,” the producer responded. 🙂

You are looking for a person in the quiet streets.
You are looking for a person in the quiet streets.

Cathedral and Catacombs of St. Paul

Church influences can be felt everywhere here. I counted several bell towers and churches. St Paul’s Cathedral, dedicated to the patron saint of Malta, is probably the most important Baroque building on the island.

Cathedral of St. Pavla has a unique dome.
Cathedral of St. Pavla has a unique dome.

Cathedral was built in the 17th century. Just next to the citadel, you can also enter the catacombs from the 8th century. Although I had planned to put both those catacombs and the Roman dome, my feet refused. I didn’t. Anyway, a must-see, and if you want to trade cathedrals and museums, be sure to set aside a whole day for Mdina.

Carmelite Priori

Mdina is also home to one of the most essential Carmelite churches in Maltese Baroque architecture. It was the first one in Malta, which Maltese built according to an elliptical plan.

Views of Malta

Mdina Panorama
Mdina Panorama

The views from the fortifications to all sides of the island caught my eye for two reasons. It was good to sit on them; the sun was shining, but it was windy. And that’s how I discovered the most fantastic tea view terrace. Naturally, I had a beer.

Taste Antonin

“Here, you can buy the best Maltese wines.” I can’t resist a sign like that. Upon entering the store, I discovered that I was in a shop selling magnets, scarves and souvenirs, and they had wine in one of the baskets- a bottle for 5€. When I apprehensively grabbed it and asked the shop assistant if she was serious, she carefully said it was Malta’s oldest brand of wine.

When I told her that I was an experienced winemaker, she gently said she would rather buy Antonin.

Marsovin Antonin

Well, Antonin wasn’t 5€, but I haven’t tasted any others since 🙂 Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon. A blend is hardly reminiscent of a great aged Bordeaux, not only in aroma but also in taste and price. I highly recommend it.

As if they asked one old man how it is: ‘Well, nothing to brag about. I drink old wines, eat mouldy cheeses and drive a car without a roof.”

There are several entrance gates leading to Mdina, this one is the less noticeable one 🙂
There are several entrance gates leading to Mdina, this one is the less noticeable one 🙂

Mdina the silent city has special atmosphere. Valletta is waiting tomorrow.

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Pavel Trevor
Pavel Trevor

Active traveling, exploring and discovering new worlds totally fulfills me. The feeling of being thrown into the water. When you don't know what's coming next and it's all up to you.

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