There are climbs that command respect. And then there are climbs that strike pure fear into your heart. Signal du Mont du Chat (1,496 m) firmly belongs to the second category.
Starting at water level from Lake Bourget (320 m) and looking up at the jagged rocky ridge above, it becomes immediately clear: this is no easy coffee ride. What lies ahead is 14.4 kilometers of relentless suffering, gaining over 1,240 meters of elevation at a punishing average gradient of 8.6%. In terms of sheer brutality and constant pressure on the pedals, this ascent rivals the fearsome Italian Mortirolo!
🚴♂️ Two Alpha Males on the Summit and Curses on the Wall
Four of us set off. But within the first few kilometers, it was obvious Mont du Chat shows no mercy. No gentle flat sections to catch your breath, no easy switchbacks. Just an uncompromising ramp heating your chain and lungs to maximum operating temperature.
A third of the way up, Ignác couldn’t hold it in. He shouted a very juicy, explicit curse word at us, flipped his bike around, and unashamedly headed back down with our second riding buddy. A very wise decision!
That left two “alpha males” on the slope. Stubbornness triumphed over common sense, so we ground it out to the very top at Signal du Mont du Chat (1,496 m). But the view from the summit—overlooking the entirety of Lake Bourget and the Savoie Alps—is something burned into your memory for the rest of your life.
🟡 TdF Spotlight: The Climb That Cripples Favorites
Signal du Mont du Chat has etched its name into Tour de France history as one of the most feared ascents ever, despite appearing rarely in the race itinerary.
- 1974 Debut: The peloton first visited in 1974. The legendary Eddy Merckx later stated that Mont du Chat was one of the hardest climbs he had ever tackled in France.
- The Bloody 2017 Stage & Richie Porte’s Crash: The most terrifying moment occurred during Stage 9 in 2017. On a crazy, highly technical descent off Mont du Chat, yellow jersey favorite Richie Porte lost control at over 70 km/h. He flew off the road, slammed into a rock wall, and took Dan Martin down with him. The result? A fractured pelvis, a broken collarbone, and an instant exit from the Tour.
- A Descender’s Nightmare: The downhill off Mont du Chat is notorious in the cycling world. The road is narrow, the asphalt unpredictable, and the hairpins tighten so sharply that your disc brakes scream for mercy.
🏰 Rejoining the Pack at Château de Bourdeau
The descent from Mont du Chat through Saint-Jean-de-Chevelu is highly technical and demands 100% focus. Down at the base of the mountain, we reunited with our runaway duo.
We set our meeting point at the fairytale Château de Bourdeau, perched on a rocky promontory overlooking the lake. This 12th-century castle is steeped in romantic lore—famous French author Honoré de Balzac loved sitting here to write.
With the tension of the climb behind us and clear heads, we transitioned into the second, far more enjoyable chapter of the day: a relaxed loop around the perimeter of Lake Bourget.
⛵ Lake Bourget (c)
Lake Bourget is far more than just a pretty body of water. As the largest natural lake in France, it is a place rich in stories, history, and architectural gems.
Did you know that Lake Bourget reaches depths of up to 145 meters and harbors a fascinating ecological quirk? It is home to the prehistoric Wels Catfish (Silurus glanis) and the rare freshwater burbot (Lotte de rivière). Locals love telling tales of massive deep-water catfish capable of swallowing ducks whole or even startling scuba divers in the depths.
⛵ The Scenic Cycling Loop Around the Lake
Nothing else in the surrounding area compared to that climb. Not the Chéran Gorge, not Mont Revard, nor Col du Granier. After the brutal effort of the “hammerheads” and the downhill off Signal du Mont du Chat, rolling around Lake Bourget was pure balm and bliss for a cyclist’s soul. We spun effortlessly, switching firmly into “Cappuccino Group” mode.
We flew past the picturesque Chapelle du Mont du Chat—presumably built to pray for the cyclists lost on the mountain above. But we kept our momentum; something bigger was waiting ahead.
Abbaye d’Hautecombe: Burial Ground of Kings
It took a bit of grumbling to turn back about a kilometer and descend all the way to the water, but it was worth every meter. The majestic Cistercian Hautecombe Abbey looks as if it rises directly out of the lake. It is the official burial site of the House of Savoy—home to the tombs of 42 princes, kings, and queens. In 1983, Umberto II, the last King of Italy, was laid to rest here in a grand ceremony.
After a short visit, we continued along the wilder, western shore through the village of Conjux to a historic port oasis.
Chanaz: The “Little Venice” of Savoie
This charming spa village sits along the Canal de Savières, connecting the lake to the Rhône River. Boats glide right beneath the windows of 15th-century stone cottages, and the air smells of freshly roasted coffee from a local historic roastery, where coffee beans are still ground using a watermill!
Incidentally, right there by the watermill, we discovered an ultra-short (30 meters) but ultra-spicy (28% gradient) ramp. So, we played like kids: who can actually punch up those 30 meters on a road bike without unclipping?
Return to Aix-les-Bains
We flew past the iconic Château de Châtillon on the northern tip of the lake. Time was pressing, and gelato, wine, and cheese wait for no one. Following the Route d’Aix through Brison, we reached the eastern shore and rolled back into Aix-les-Bains, our starting point and base camp.
This is where history meets elegance.
Besides hosting figures like Queen Victoria and writer Guy de Maupassant for thermal cures, the town holds a juicy slice of political history: in 1934, the Kings of Greece and Yugoslavia met secretly in a local hotel to decide the fate of Europe.
Today, it is a cycling paradise featuring an endless lakeside promenade, café terraces, dedicated bike paths, and stunning views of the sun setting behind the Mont du Chat massif.
Epilogue
It was a day of two completely different worlds: blood, sweat, curses, and lowest gears on the slopes of Mont du Chat in the morning; wind in our hair, castles, cappuccinos, and endless views of turquoise water in the afternoon. If you ever find yourself in Savoie, don’t miss this loop!
