Are you planning a trip between Chambéry and Annecy? Make sure to bring your road bike. You need to discover the dramatic Chéran gorge. The region also offers two magnificent lakes: Lac de Bourget and Lac d’Annecy.
We discovered a spectacular gorge right between the two lakes. The rushing waters of the Chéran river carved these steep rock walls. We immediately geared up for a fantastic cycling loop through the heart of Savoy.
Historically, the Chéran gorge attracted gold miners and fishermen. Local residents often call this beautiful area the “Canada.” A gentle hiking trail runs right along the riverbank. This 6-kilometer path features a very low elevation gain of just 308 meters. It starts at 431 meters and peaks at an altitude of 568 meters.
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The Bauges Massif and the Walls of Semnoz
The Chéran river and the road to Pont de l’Abîme offer a smooth, highly scenic ride. However, the surrounding Massif des Bauges is a completely different story. The river originates in these high limestone ridges. Together with the nearby Mont Semnoz (1,710 m), this massif represents pure suffering for the Tour de France peloton.
- The 2013 Centenary Showdown: These very Savoyard roads hosted the penultimate, decisive Stage 20 of the 100th Tour de France in 2013. The final, brutal mountain finish up the Semnoz served as the absolute climax of the entire three-week race.
- Quintana’s Ascension: A young Nairo Quintana launched a vicious attack on these steep slopes. He dropped the yellow jersey, Chris Froome, to claim a historic stage victory. This brilliant move secured his second-place spot on the final podium in Paris. It also locked down the iconic polka-dot jersey. The pro peloton flew just a few kilometers away from the quiet waters of the Chéran gorge.
Crossing the Mighty Pont de l’Abîme
Our primary objective rolling out from our base in Aix-les-Bains was the iconic suspension bridge known as Pont de l’Abîme. The road leading up to it is a highly comfortable, gentle climb along a wonderfully quiet, low-traffic asphalt road.
The bridge itself looks absolutely spectacular. It cuts straight across the deep canyon at a height of 96 meters. It boasts an impressive single span of 74 meters. The vertical rock faces on both sides practically demanded a bridge here. Workers built the structure back in 1888. It drastically shortened the travel distance between the rural villages of Cusy and Gruffy.
Immediately following its completion, it became a premier tourist attraction for the wealthy elite frequenting the spa resorts of Aix-les-Bains and Annecy. Horse-drawn carriage excursions were organized here as early as the late 19th century. For us road cyclists, the bridge remains a highly popular, bucket-list destination to this day.
The Chéran Gorge and the Chocolate Dilemma
The Chéran is a 54 km long river snaking through the Savoy Alps in eastern France. It springs from the high limestone ridges of the Massif des Bauges and flows beneath the majestic slopes of Mont Semnoz (1,710 m).
A gorgeous hiking trail runs through the gorge, which, with a fair bit of bike-carrying over rough spots, can also be managed on a mountain bike. The scenery is simply sublime. For our route, however, we only tracked an 8 km section of it, riding as far as a local waterfall and a second stone bridge called Pont des Banges.
At this intersection, we broke away from the river and began a steep climb up to the village of Arith, drawn by the allure of a highly recommended local artisan chocolaterie. The luxury bonbons displayed on their promotional flyers looked exceptionally delicious, but our tasting session cut short.
We rolled into the village valley and realized it was Monday. Following strict French traditions, Monday means everything is completely closed.
The road out of the valley wasn’t overly long. However, we had empty stomachs and no chocolate rewards. The climb quickly transformed into a painful path of pure physical penance. We hammered up the hill in a furious tempo. At the top, we collapsed onto our backs in a lush meadow. The grass smelled absolutely wonderful. From there, we only faced a pleasant descent past a local alpine cheese farm.
Montcel: Wine, Cheese, and Pure Blis
We take a sharp turn toward the village of Montcel to sample the renowned, locally produced Bauges A.O.P. cheeses. The family farm is clearly marked by a wooden sign just a few hundred meters outside the village limits, requiring a short, punchy uphill sprint. But let’s be honest—there is virtually nothing a dedicated cyclist won’t do for some world-class gourmet pleasure.
Picture this: you are just ten kilometers away from your apartment, coasting smoothly downhill on a completely empty backroad. There is no greater sense of pure bliss. We cracked open a chilled bottle of local Savoyard Rosé wine. Taste generous slices of artisanal cheeses straight from the Alpage de la Cluse farm. We sat there, enjoying the sweeping views of high-altitude alpine pastures.
On the final stretch back to base, we enjoy a little trip down memory lane. Our route merges back onto the main access road leading up to Mont Revard. The exact peak where we had nearly frozen solid in a sudden snowstorm just days prior. Thankfully, heading down toward the lake this time around didn’t hurt one bit. It was just smooth, stress-free, gravity-assisted coasting all the way to the finish.
The True France: Cycling Savoy
If you ever find yourself traveling through the region between Chambéry and Annecy, do not miss the opportunity to explore both Lac de Bourget and Lac d’Annecy. Together, they offer hundreds of kilometers of pristine. Dedicated cycling paths, breathtaking mountain backdrops, authentic medieval towns, and a vast array of both highly ambitious climbing loops and elegant, recreational routes.
You won’t find the true, authentic soul of France on the busy streets of Paris. You will find it right here. In the high valleys of Haute-Savoie.
