If you find yourself in Northern Czechia, in the Bohemian Switzerland National Park, you simply cannot miss the Elbe Sandstones and the dramatic canyon heading towards the city of Děčín. Labské Pískovce and the labyrinth of Tiské skály (Tyssa Walls) form a majestic backdrop to this region—a landscape shaped by wind, water, and millions of years of patience.
Labská Stráň: A Sunset Bathed in Pilsner
The Belvedere viewpoint is the oldest in Bohemian Switzerland, and it remains one of the most breathtaking. It offers a sweeping view of the Elbe Canyon, perched 160 metres above the river. Located just a short distance from the village of Labská Stráň, it is easily accessible by both bike and car.
We followed the red-marked trail along the cliff edge. There is a specific magic to this place, especially during sunset. We sat on the terrace, enjoying a hard-earned Plzeň (Pilsner Urquell).
Patriot Story at Belvedere Viewpoint
“Wunderschön. Genial. Leckeres Bier,” a voice drifted across the terrace. We were close to the German border, and you could hear it in the air. “Wo bist du wieder gelaufen?” an elderly lady asked her dog as she stepped into her grey Mercedes.
But then, suddenly, I heard my own mother tongue: “Mom, I don’t want to go anymore. Let’s just go… I’m tired. They don’t even have Wi-Fi here.”
I don’t know what it is, but whenever we are abroad, we become fierce patriots. You only need to hear a familiar dialect, and suddenly you’re brothers—even if, back home, you might not give each other the time of day.
“Where are you from? Where are you headed? What’s worth seeing?”
The questions flowed like the Elbe below us. Meeting a fellow countryman in a foreign land feels like finding a kindred spirit. Language connects us. It certainly wasn’t the “boiled ox tongue with rosehip sauce” that connected us—a “chef’s specialty” I ordered for dinner that turned out to be a culinary gamble I lost. Regardless, Elbe Sandstones is a place where you want to spend your weary evenings, watching the sun dip below the horizon with a cold Pilsner in hand.
Tiské skály: The Labyrinth Where Legends Breathe
From the heights of Labská Stráň, we headed into a realm that filmmakers chose as the backdrop for The Chronicles of Narnia. The Tiské skály (Tyssa Walls) are more than just rock formations; they are a true labyrinth. Together with the Ostrovské and Rajecké walls, they form a paradise for hikers and climbers, with sandstone towers reaching heights of over 600 metres.
You can choose between two circuits—the Small and the Large walls. My advice? Put away the map and let your intuition guide you through the narrow fissures and beneath the massive overhangs. Here, you don’t live by information boards; you live by what you see in the stone. One moment you see a “Rock Gorilla,” the next, a “Sleeping Giant.”
The entrance to the walls is guarded by the Church of St. Anne in the village of Tisá, or you can start at the Tourist Hut. Whichever path you choose, Tiské skály will surprise you with their raw architecture, carved by the elements over millions of years. It is a place where it is easy to lose track of time—especially if you stop rushing like that family at Belvedere looking for Wi-Fi.
📌 Practical Tips: Elbe Sandstones & Tiské skály
Yes, it is one of the most accessible spots in the region. You can drive very close to the viewpoint or reach it via an easy cycling path. It’s perfect for those who want a spectacular view without a strenuous climb.
Yes, there is a small entrance fee to enter the rock city labyrinth. The funds go towards maintaining the paths and ensuring the safety of the site. It’s a small price to pay for entering a “fairytale” world.
The Small Walls circuit takes about an hour, while the Large Walls require at least another hour or two if you really want to explore the hidden corners. Combined, it’s a perfect half-day trip.
While the views are world-class, the “chef’s specialties” can be a hit-or-miss. Stick to the classics or enjoy a cold Czech beer on the terrace—you can’t go wrong with that.
