Located in the northern Czech Republic, within the Bohemian Switzerland National Park—widely regarded as one of Europe’s most breathtaking natural landscapes—lie the Soutězky Hřenska (Hřensko Gorges). We perceive them as a place where time doesn’t tick away in minutes, but by the steady strike of a wooden pole against the riverbed.
When you board a small boat in these deep sandstone canyons, you feel as though you are entering a natural cathedral. The rocks close in above you, and the only sound remaining is the gentle ripple of the Kamenice river. And then… then comes the ferryman’s joke.
Don’t be Lazy: Enter via the Mezná Stairs
We were fortunate enough to have tackled the descent from the village of Mezná several times. Today, following the massive forest fire of 2022, this route is essentially the only authentic way to reach the water.
While the main artery through the Edmundova gorge remains closed (as of 2026) due to unstable slopes and charred trees, the descent from Mezná to the Mezní můstek bridge throws you right into the heart of the action. Those stairs… your knees will certainly remember them.
But the view when the gorge finally opens up before you is a priceless reward. Down by the water, you discover the most beautiful corners around the Divoká soutězka (Wild Gorge)—sights you couldn’t even dream of back when the “celebrity” Edmundova gorge was the main attraction. It is rawer, quieter, and far more personal.
The Ferrymen Folklore
Showmanship in the Shadows of Sandstone
A boat trip through the gorges isn’t just about nature; it’s about the people. The ferrymen are a caste unto themselves. Their stories about rock formations that resemble a gorilla, a family in an argument, or a sleeping giant are a mandatory part of the experience.
It is a bizarre mix of genuine admiration for nature and well-rehearsed showmanship. The highlight is often the “artificial waterfall,” which the ferryman triggers by pulling a hidden cord. Is it kitsch? Perhaps. But in the deep shadows of the rocks, it is exactly the kind of absurdity we love.
A Bizarre Fact: The Italian Connection
Tunnels Carved with Sweat and Romance
Take a moment to notice the galleries and tunnels of Soutězky Hřenska carved into the rocks along the Kamenice. In the late 19th century, they were blasted and hewn by Italian tunnel-building experts. Prince Edmund Clary-Aldringen was determined to turn an impassable ravine into a world-class tourist magnet.
Imagine those men 140 years ago, manually crushing sandstone in the biting cold of the canyon so that we can walk through today with a camera in hand. It is a fascinating reminder that even this “wilderness” was built as a luxury theme park for the monarchy.
📌 Practical Tips: Soutezky Hřenska Gorges in 2026
No. As of 2026, the Edmundova (Quiet) gorge remains closed to the public due to the aftermath of the 2022 fire and the ongoing risk of falling trees. The Divoká soutězka is fully operational, but reaching it requires a longer hike from Mezná Louka or the steep descent from the village of Mezná.
While the digital age has progressed, we still strongly recommend carrying cash. Mobile signals are notoriously unstable in the deep gorges, and card terminals on the boats often fail. Furthermore, a small tip for a funny ferryman is a long-standing local tradition.
Definitely choose the descent from the village of Mezná (green markers). Although the stairs are steep, they bring you directly to the bridge (Mezní můstek), which is just a short walk from the open Divoká soutězka. Accessing the area directly from the town of Hřensko is currently impossible due to the closure of the Edmundova gorge.
Dogs are welcome on the boats (usually with a muzzle and for a small fee). However, bicycles are strictly prohibited. The gorges are for hikers only; you must leave your bikes at the car parks in Hřensko or Mezná Louka.
