A morning at the port of Skiathos has a unique atmosphere. Ferries slowly board cars, tourists stand around with backpacks, and somewhere in the middle of it all, you stand—holding a boat ticket and the feeling that you’ll spend the next week on the island of Skopelos. The sea is calm, the engine roars, and Skiathos begins to drift away. An hour later, a green hill appears on the horizon. Not beaches, not hotels—just a vast island covered in pine trees. That is Skopelos.
And it was right here that most of the scenes from the movie Mamma Mia! took place—even though the marketing world prefers to credit them to Skiathos.
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An Island Without an Airport and the Village of Glossa
Skopelos has one major advantage: it has no airport. It sounds like a minor detail, but it means one thing—everyone who comes here had to board a boat first. Perhaps that’s why the island feels much calmer.
It is essentially one big hill, crisscrossed with hiking trails, with a coastal road circling it. Towns are perched on slopes, and small bays hide between them. The first thing you see from the ferry is the town of Glossa.
The houses climb the hill, narrow alleys disappear between roofs, and the sea opens up behind them. It looks exactly like the Greek island you imagine when planning your vacation in January in front of a computer.
Double Beach, Two Worlds
South of the main town lies a spot recommended to me by locals. First, you arrive at Staphylos Beach. A peaceful bay, warm water, and surrounding hills—the perfect place for a swim and a sunset view. But if you walk a short path over the hill, you reach the other side.
There lies Velanio Beach. Wilder, windier, with pebbles and larger waves. It’s strange how two beaches just a few minutes apart can feel like two completely different islands.
The Mamma Mia Church
The most famous spot on the island is the small white staircase leading to the church of Agios Ioannis Kastri.
If you’ve seen the movie, you recognize it instantly. In the film, it looks romantic. In reality, it’s a bit of a logistical operation—narrow steps, tourists waiting for photos, and a slow climb to the top. But once you finally reach the summit, the view is worth it. Below you is the sea, the rocky coastline, and endless blue. A movie set that, in reality, doesn’t need a movie at all.
The Most Authentic Mamma Mia Moment
Paradoxically, our best “movie moment” didn’t happen at the church. It happened in a taxi.
The bus, in typical Greek fashion, didn’t show up. We hopped into a taxi along with three German girls who had the exact same energy as the film characters. The taxi wound along the coastal road, the views changing every minute—and suddenly, from the back seat, we heard:
“Mamma mia… here I go again…”
Within moments, the whole car was singing. The taxi driver smiled contentedly in the rearview mirror, occasionally saying something in Greek, while the girls tried to respond in a mix of English, German, and pure excitement. Outside, pine forests, the sea, and small villages flashed by.
In that moment, I realized that this is exactly what a scene from the movie would look like if it weren’t written by a screenwriter, but by life itself.
Peaceful Skopelos Town
The main town, Skopelos Town (Chora), is larger than the town on Skiathos, but paradoxically feels quieter. Fewer tourists, more local homes, and alleys where people actually live. Between the tavernas, you’ll find small galleries and shops with ceramics from all over Greece. In the evening, you can just wander here without a goal.
It’s exactly the type of place where you realize that some islands are better for slow discovery than for a checklist of attractions.
Monasteries Above the Island
If you take the hiking trails and head from the town into the hills, you’ll discover surprisingly and unexpectedly photogenic spots. 🙂 But especially the small Orthodox monasteries clinging to the cliffs. The most famous is the Monastery of Evangelistria on Skopelos.
You can see the whole island—the hills, the villages, and the sea on the horizon from there. And above all, it’s quiet there.
A Small Paradox at the End
When we returned by ferry to Skiathos after a week, I thought about one thing. We came to Skopelos because of Mamma Mia. We saw the church, the beaches, and the filming locations. And yet, what I remember most from the day is one thing: an old taxi, three singing German girls, and a driver who clearly enjoyed that his workday had turned into a musical.
Maybe it’s always like that. You come looking for movie sets and leave with a story that wouldn’t even fit in a movie.
3 Places on Skopelos I Would Return To
- The Hillside Town of Glossa: The most photogenic spot on the island. Just walk without a map and get lost in its alleys.
- Staphylos & Velanio Twin Beaches: One peaceful and warm, the other wild and windy. Two different worlds separated by a 5-minute walk.
- Evening Wandering in Skopelos Town: Tavernas, ceramic shops, and a calm atmosphere perfect for a slow dinner.
How to Get from Skiathos to Skopelos
The trip from Skiathos to Skopelos is simple and offers one of the most beautiful boat routes in the Northern Sporades.
- Departure: Skiathos Port
- Destination: Skopelos Port (Chora) or Loutraki Port (below Glossa)
- Duration: 45 – 90 minutes
- Price: Usually €15 – €30
- Tip: Sit on the top deck. Arriving at Skopelos offers one of the best views of the island—green hills plunging straight into the sea.
Practical Tips (FAQ)
Yes. Take an early ferry to Loutraki, visit Glossa, take a taxi to the Mamma Mia church, and spend the afternoon in Skopelos Town before taking the evening ferry back.
Yes, buses run between Skopelos Town, Glossa, and the main beaches. However, for the Mamma Mia church, a taxi or rented car/quad is better as the bus doesn’t go directly there.
Like most Greek islands, it’s better to stick to bottled water for drinking, though tap water is fine for showering and brushing teeth.
