Anyone visiting Alicante sees it first. Santa Bárbara Castle perches atop Mount Benacantil, 166 meters above sea level, uncompromisingly dominating the city skyline.
Most tourists do the same thing: they walk to the elevator on Avenida de Jovellanos, pay nearly three euros, and let themselves be whisked through a tunnel carved into the rock directly to the summit. It’s convenient. It’s fast. And it’s a massive mistake.
Because the castle isn’t just a destination. It’s a journey through places that most people criminally skip.
A Thousand Years Beneath Your Feet
Before we head up, a quick “flashback.” This fortress has stood here since the 9th century, back when the Moors ruled Alicante. It was named after Saint Barbara because it was on her feast day (December 4, 1248) that the castle was conquered by the future King Alfonso X the Wise.
The castle has seen it all: French bombardments, British occupation, and the dark times following the Civil War when it served as a prison. If you look closely at the walls in the middle section, you can still find the names of prisoners carved into the stone, men who waited here for their fate. Until 1963, the castle sat as a haunted, abandoned ruin before it was finally opened to us—the curious wanderers. I climbed it twice, taking a different route each time.
Route 1: Santa Cruz
They call it the “Montmartre of Alicante.” This is the darling of every photographer’s heart. The Barrio de Santa Cruz isn’t large; it’s a maze of ten narrow alleys climbing the mountainside. White houses, colorful flowerpots, and stairs that will test your legs. At times it feels like a tourist cliché, but surprisingly, people actually live here to the fullest.
On the highest terrace above the city sits a small chapel—the Hermitage of Santa Cruz. I clearly stumbled into some religious holiday. The “living Madonnas” in traditional costumes weren’t thrilled when I snapped a photo of them, but hey, that’s part of the local tourism that keeps this whole area alive.
At the end of the stairs, near the walls and gardens, lives perhaps the wealthiest grandma in the foothills. You’ll recognize her business easily—you’ve never seen an entrance so packed with flowerpots. Grandma sits on a chair with her cane, and on a piece of cardboard in front of her (which a cat is currently licking), it says you are already the 350,000th visitor this year helping maintain her plants—and who has (naturally for a small fee) taken a photo with her.
You can’t help yourself; you snap one too. A Euro coin drops into the box. Grandma, the flowers, and you—everyone is happy.
It’s like Hitchcock’s Camera Obscura. A world within a city. At times you feel like you’re in a Greek village, at others in Rome’s Trastevere. The path to the castle is simple: keep going up. Until you reach the only preserved section of the city walls. The view of the sea here is already dizzying—and you’re only halfway there.
From my perspective, wandering these picturesque, fairytale alleys is more interesting than the castle itself, where, let’s be honest, besides the walls, the elevator, and the gift shop, there isn’t actually that much to see.
- Start: Plaza de San Cristóbal.
- Time: 20–30 minutes of walking (plus an hour for photographing flowerpots).
Route 2: Parque de la Ereta (The Green Oasis)
If you want fewer stairs and more shade, choose the park. Ereta consists of terraced gardens where locals sit by fountains and watch the sunset. It’s the perfect spot for “slow tourism.” You sit on a bench, open your water, and watch the city shrink beneath you. Again, the question arises: is there even any point in scrambling all the way to the top?
- Start: Dean Zaragoza Gate (upper part of Santa Cruz).
- Time: A relaxed 30–40 minutes.
Route 3: The Wild Loop from Marq-Castillo (Around the Mountain)
This route is for those who want to see the castle from every angle. It starts at Parc Castello and circles Mount Benacantil. You have Serra Grossa (our “secret mountain”) in the palm of your hand, and you’ll enjoy a bit of rebellion. The path up is lined with several graffiti-covered stations. It felt like a street-art version of the Stations of the Cross—only instead of a god, it worships freedom, youth, and revolution.
Proudly and deliberately turn onto the side paths. They are all part of the hiking trails around the castle. Don’t skip the rocky viewpoint overlooking Serra Grossa. You’ll see the rugged, rocky face of the castle that isn’t visible from the beach. You’ll only meet a few people here. It’s not for the crowds. It’s more about yourself—nature, geology, rocky challenges, and vistas.
If you want to “check off” the castle, take the elevator. If you want Instagram, go through Santa Cruz. But if you want peace and space for yourself, choose this loop.
Santa Bárbara Castle: What Awaits at the Top?
The castle has three levels. The highest terrace (La Torreta) is the oldest—there you’ll find the legendary Tower of Homage. The middle areas are from the 16th century, home to the Parade Ground and guard posts. The Hall of Philip II made the biggest impression on me. The lowest level serves as a parking lot today, but that’s exactly where I took my best photos.
There are four main viewpoints. My tip? Mirador de la Campana to the west. If you arrive before sunset, you’ll see the light breaking over the surrounding mountains. The elevator won’t give you that in two minutes.
Also, brace yourself for the crowds. The elevator, originally intended only for seniors and people with disabilities, can have a 15-minute wait even in the off-season—and in high season, it can easily be an hour. In that time, you could have walked up and down twice.
The Legend of the Moor: The Face in the Rock
When you’re down on Postiguet Beach, look up at the mountain. If you squint, you can clearly see a profile of a human face in the rock. It’s called La Cara del Moro (The Moor’s Face).
Legend tells of Governor Ben-Abed and his daughter Zahara, who loved a Christian. The father promised that if it snowed overnight, he wouldn’t kill the young man. It didn’t snow, but all the almond trees blossomed at once. The governor broke his promise and executed the youth. Zahara threw herself off the cliff in grief, and the desperate father begged Allah for punishment. Allah turned him to stone—his face is forever etched into the rock exactly where his daughter found her death. (Is there even a castle where a lover didn’t jump off a cliff due to heartbreak?)
Symphonycard
Just as I was leaving, I noticed a small exhibition where I ended up spending the most time. It mapped the evolution of LP cover designs for rock legends like Pink Floyd, The Clash, Led Zeppelin, and more. I truly enjoyed it.
Practical Tips
- Admission: Free (including the MUSA museum inside).
- Elevator: approx. €2.70 (unless you really can’t walk, ignore it).
- Hours: Until 11 PM in summer (the castle is magically lit at night).
- The Descent: Always walk down through Santa Cruz and end at the Basilica of Santa María. That’s where the post-hike beer tastes best.
Verdict: The elevator is for those in a hurry. But Santa Bárbara Castle isn’t about speed. It’s about the scent of flowers in Santa Cruz, the touch of cold stone in a prison cell, rocky paths, and viewpoints. It’s about that great feeling when you finally breathe in Alicante with full lungs.
