When you feel that the 15-million-strong beast of Istanbul is about to swallow you whole, it’s time to flee the Golden Horn. We’re heading away from “civilization”—or at least the modern version of it. Our destination is Kizil Adalar, the Prince’s Islands.
During the season, plenty of ferries make the journey, carrying you to a place where the blare of car horns is replaced by the gentle tinkling of bicycle bells and the rhythm of horse hooves. It’s like a jump-cut in a film; suddenly, you are in another century.
Kizil Adalar
A World Without Exhaust Fumes
We conquered the main island, Büyükada, on foot. No record-breaking feats, no grueling climbs or professional trails—just walking. The greatest charm of these islands is the absolute absence of motor vehicles. The only thing that “smells” here (in both a good and bad sense) are the horses and the bicycles. Especially in the summer, the islands are a popular sanctuary. The wealthy urban classes build their residences here, modern villas alternating with half-ruined wooden mansions that whisper of the former glory of their owners.
The Electric Revolution: Today, the original horse-drawn carriages (phaetons) are banned due to animal exhaustion. They have been replaced by silent electric vehicles. It’s a fascinating paradox—an island without cars, now running on electricity, yet stubbornly clinging to its 19th-century vibe.
The Wooden Spectre: Büyükada is also home to the largest wooden building in Europe (and the second largest in the world)—the Prinkipo Greek Orthodox Orphanage. It is a monumental wooden ghost, looking like something straight out of a Hitchcock horror film.
We didn’t find many tourists here. During spring and autumn, the islands are quieter. Outside the main season, the sea can be treacherous, often cutting the islands off from the mainland. In winter, with biting cold winds and unpredictable ferry schedules, the islands become almost deserted.
Exile with a Hint of Luxury
From Interned Nobles to Lovers
The islands earned their name during the Byzantine era, when “inconvenient” princes and members of the nobility were sent here into exile. Later, they were replaced by Ottoman sultans. Today, a different kind of “exile” is sought here—mostly by lovers. A stroll through the parks and alleys of Büyükada is a pleasant day-long diversion, free of demanding trails. It is pure romance, which the sea regularly isolates from the world during winter storms.
Trotsky’s Exile: Did you know that Leon Trotsky lived in exile right here on Büyükada after being expelled by Stalin? His house still stands in a state of decay—a bizarre monument of heavy political nostalgia in the middle of a holiday paradise.
Unified Dreams vs. The Authentic Vapur
Why Choose a Boat Over a Shopping Centre
Before heading to the islands, we took a brief look into a modern shopping centre. Unified storefronts—Gant, Zara, Pandora… sterile, discounted, and identical to those in Bratislava or London. But true luxury isn’t found in a brand name; it’s found in the moment you stand on the deck of a ferry (vapur), with the wind ruffling your hair, watching the silhouette of Istanbul slowly fade into the haze over the Sea of Marmara.
The Silence After the Last Ferry: We have to return, and it feels like a shame. According to those who know these islands best, the most powerful moment isn’t during the day, but at the exact second the last ferry departs for Istanbul. Suddenly, the tourist hum vanishes, and the island plunges into a silence broken only by the lapping of the waves.
Upon our return, we disembarked in the evening on the Asian side. It’s known for its significantly lower cost of living. Every day, we appreciated the fresh orange juice sold on the street for next to nothing. A perfect daily investment for a bit of energy.
We wander through the city for a while. We still need to find something for dinner. Tonight, the fish market will provide the answer.
FAQ: The Prince’s Islands istanbul
Regular ferries (vapur) run to the islands from the European side (Eminönü, Kabataš) and the Asian side (Bostanci, Kadiköy). The journey takes approximately 60 to 90 minutes depending on the port and the type of boat.
No, motor vehicles are banned on the islands (with the exception of police and emergency services). The main modes of transport are bicycles and, historically, horse-drawn carriages (phaetons), though the latter have recently been replaced by electric vehicles for animal welfare reasons.
The largest and most popular is Büyükada. It offers the most historical villas, a variety of restaurants, and a stunning view from the hill where the Monastery of St. George (Aya Yorgi) is located.
