When planning an outdoor road trip through Southern Europe, using sunny Puglia as your base camp is ideal. But there is one specific destination just across the regional border that you absolutely must add to your itinerary. Cross into the rugged neighboring region of Basilicata, and you will step onto another planet. Welcome to Matera.
At first glance, it looks like a gargantuan stone labyrinth. Houses, churches, steep staircases, and narrow alleys are stacked on top of one another so naturally that it feels as though they weren’t built by human hands, but carved out by nature itself. It makes sense—Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on Earth. Archaeologists estimate that people were living in these limestone caves roughly 9,000 years ago.
From the “Shame of Italy” to Luxury Boutique Caves
The beating heart of the city is the world-famous Sassi di Matera districts, a protected UNESCO World Heritage site. These cave dwellings weren’t built on the mountain—they were dug directly into it. For centuries, entire families lived deep inside these dark caverns. A single cave served as a kitchen, bedroom, workshop, and stable. Livestock was kept inside alongside the children, acting as a living, breathing radiator system.
While it sounds wildly exotic today, this was a harsh, poverty-stricken reality for thousands of people up until the middle of the last century. In the 1950s, due to catastrophic hygienic conditions, malaria outbreaks, and extreme poverty, Matera was branded a national embarrassment and labeled “the shame of Italy.” The government eventually forced the population to evacuate into modern apartment blocks, leaving the ancient caves to rot.
Thankfully, a group of young visionaries in the 1980s recognized the unmatched architectural value of the ruins. Today, the story has completely flipped. Those once-impoverished caves have been transformed into some of the most luxurious boutique hotels, high-end restaurants, and trendy cafes in Europe. Completing its massive redemption arc, Matera was named the European Capital of Culture in 2019.
Hollywood’s Biblical Set and a Sunken Cathedral
The best way to experience Matera is to completely abandon your map. Just wander aimlessly. Every alleyway takes you to a different level, every staircase opens up a jaw-dropping view, and every corner reveals a hidden plaza or an ancient church. Getting lost here is entirely effortless, and that is precisely where the magic lies.
Palombaro Lungo
While exploring, keep an eye out for these highlights:
- The Rupestrian Churches: Carved into the cliffs and nestled between homes, these rock-cut sanctuaries hold stunning, centuries-old Byzantine frescoes that have miraculously survived the dampness of the caves.
- Palombaro Lungo: Tucked directly underneath the main town square lies an enormous underground water cistern. Walking through it feels like exploring a dark, sunken cathedral. It’s a testament to the sheer ingenuity of ancient locals who engineered a massive network of canals to secure water in a notoriously dry region.
- The Cinematic Atmosphere: Walking through the stone corridors, you quickly realize why Hollywood is obsessed with this place. Matera serves as the ultimate natural film set, starring in Mel Gibson’s The Passion of the Christ, Ben-Hur, and the high-octane Aston Martin chase in the James Bond film No Time to Die.
We were incredibly lucky to arrive two weeks before the town’s biggest annual celebration—the Madonna della Bruna festival (held on July 2nd). The entire city was buzzing with energy; streets were dressed in massive light installations, concerts echoed across the squares, and you could feel how deeply the holiday mattered to the locals. If you can, stay until absolute darkness falls. When thousands of warm yellow lights flicker on across the stone facade, Matera transforms into the most romantic evening stroll imaginable.
Hiking the Gorge: Why You Need a Boyfriend with Big Feet
To see Matera from its wildest perspective, you need to cross the deep Gravina gorge into the protected Parco della Murgia Materana. This park is packed with prehistoric caves and unrivaled panoramic lookouts. To get there, you cross a long, swaying Tibetan suspension bridge.
However, Italian park rangers take trail safety seriously. If you show up in casual, flat fashion sneakers, they will not let you pass the ticket gate. I spent a long time trying to flash a smile and convince the lady at the counter that my sneakers were up to the task, but she wouldn’t budge. In a heroic twist, my boyfriend saved the day. He sacrificed his own hike, slid his heavy, rugged trekking boots off, and lent them to me—even though they were several sizes too big. Thanks to his oversized boots, I managed to scramble up the canyon and witness the most beautiful view over the ancient city. The takeaway? Bring proper hiking boots, gents, you might just save your partner’s trip!
📌 Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
No. The historic Sassi quarters are classified as a ZTL zone (Limited Traffic Zone) and driving is strictly banned for non-residents. Doing so results in heavy automated fines. You must park your vehicle in one of the guarded garages on the edge of the modern town (such as Parcheggio Via Saragat) and either walk down or catch the local shuttle bus.
While you can see the main sights in a single day, booking a room in a converted cave hotel takes the experience to another level. Walking the silent, glowing stone corridors at night after the day-trippers have left is something you’ll never forget.
Yes, prepare your legs for a serious workout. The entire city is carved into a steep ravine. You are constantly climbing up and down uneven, ancient stone steps which become incredibly slick when wet. Navigating this terrain with heavy rolling luggage or baby strollers is an absolute nightmare.
