For me, the Czerwone Wierchy (Red Peaks) are synonymous with space. Their broad, grassy ridges, which transform into endless white plains in winter, offer a sense of freedom that you rarely find in the deep alpine valleys. While the Slovak side of the Tatras is mostly closed during winter due to seasonal restrictions, the Polish Tatras welcome hikers with open arms. We decided to take advantage of this and headed for one of the ridge’s most beautiful summits – Kondratova Kopa (2,005 m).
Starting in Kuznice: Entering the National Park
Our journey began in Kuznice, near Zakopane. If you’re heading here, keep some change ready or use a mobile app—entry to the Tatra National Park (TPN) in Poland requires a small fee. You can buy your ticket at the entrance or online, and the proceeds go toward trail maintenance and nature conservation.
The initial part of the trail is a pleasant stroll. The wide path warms you up nicely and leads you effortlessly to the PTTK mountain hut on Hala Kondratowa. This is where the “walk” ends and the real mountain grind begins.
Kondratova Pass: A Test of Will in the Snow
Behind the hut, the incline rises unyieldingly. The ascent to Kondratova Pass was a true test of will this time. The snow was slushy, constantly collapsing underfoot, making every step cost twice as much energy. Technically, it wasn’t difficult, but physically, we hit our limits. A little voice in the back of my mind kept whispering: “How on earth are we going to get back down this?” But the mountains teach you to focus on the present moment.
Hikevent Tip: Never underestimate winter snow conditions in the Polish Tatras. Even if a trail isn’t exposed, soft or slushy snow can double your hiking time.
Giewont: The Sleeping Knight Under a Blanket of Clouds
At the pass, a reward was waiting for us. Right in front of us rose the iconic Giewont with its 15-meter steel cross. This symbol of Poland resembles a “Sleeping Knight” who, according to legend, will wake up when the country is in need. Although Giewont is known as “Poland’s lightning rod” (extremely dangerous during summer storms), it stood calm and majestic on this winter day. We were surprised to find only a handful of people in a location that is usually teeming with crowds.
To the Summit: A Theater of Light and Shadows
As we pushed from the pass toward the summit, the conditions luckily flipped 180 degrees. The snow became frozen and firm, allowing us to find a steady rhythm. Above us, the sky put on its own visual performance. Thick clouds were tearing apart, allowing sunbeams to illuminate parts of the ridge in dramatic, high-contrast bursts. These are the moments where you simply have to stop and be silent.
At the top of Kondratova Kopa, a panorama unfolded that makes every early morning wake-up call worth it:
- The entire Czerwone Wierchy ridge in its winter glory.
- The jagged peaks of the High Tatras in the distance.
- The wild, raw beauty of the Western Tatras right at your fingertips.
At an altitude above 2,000 meters, you don’t just feel like you’re looking at the mountains—you feel like you are standing right in their heart.
The Descent and a Coffee Break
The dreaded descent turned out to be surprisingly smooth. The snow held better, and gravity worked in our favor. We stopped at the PTTK hut for a well-deserved coffee, recharged our batteries, and gratefully made our way back to Kuznice.
It was one of those days where everything clicked—the weather, the conditions, and the energy. Kondratova Kopa reminded us that the winter Tatras have a specific magic that recharges your soul for weeks to come.
🥾 Quick Info: Kondratova Kopa (Winter)
- Start & End Point: Kuznice (Zakopane, Poland)
- Route: Kuznice – PTTK Hala Kondratowa – Kondratova Pass – Kondratova Kopa (and back).
- Entry Fee: TPN entry fee required (approx. 9 PLN / €2).
- Equipment: Microspikes (nesmeky) are a must in winter; crampons and poles are highly recommended if the terrain is icy.
- Difficulty: Moderate (physically demanding due to snow).
