Perhaps I will look back on this as a nostalgic memory from a time when trains ran daily, carrying locals to school and work. Back when I originally wrote this article, it truly seemed that the Jindřichův Hradec narrow-gauge railway had made its final run. Fortunately, a dedicated group of enthusiasts and a new management team literally dug it out of its grave.
As a result, taking a trip on the narrow-gauge railway from Nová Bystřice to Jindřichův Hradec (Jindřichohradecké úzkokolejky) is once again a reality in 2026—and it remains just as unique an experience as ever.
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🌲 All Aboard at Hůrky Station
We are sitting on a wooden bench, waiting for the train. Lejdy, our dog, is busy chasing mice near a local pond. In the distance, somewhere behind the forested hill, I can hear the faint echo of a train whistle. Given the time it takes for the locomotive to navigate the massive curve around the Osika pond and Blato, we still have plenty of time. I can hear the gentle hum of bees and a heavy, deep silence.
It was a silence that spoke volumes—whispering about how these beech trees stood here long before anyone ever came up with the idea of Bohemia. How the Lužnice River never asked for any permits to flow. It whispered that these massive granite boulders are not just rocks, but forgotten words of an ancient tongue that no one ever dared to speak out loud.
I wanted to ask about the age of the spruce tree standing right across from us, but the silence raised its hand—wait. Lejdy stopped chasing mice. Even the bees went completely quiet. And then I felt it rather than heard it—a subtle, primal vibration running beneath the wooden railway ties. A message from an underground telegram that has been functioning without Wi-Fi since the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
The silence paused, slid its manuscript back into its pocket, and simply muttered: “That will have to wait.”
The train didn’t just arrive. It appeared—as if it had always been standing right there, only choosing this exact moment to become visible to the human eye.
Hanka looked at me. Nataša looked at Lejdy. Lejdy stared at the train.
And I knew right then that the rest of that interrupted conversation with the silence—I would never get it back.
Czech Canada, Hůrky Station—a place where trains always arrive just a little bit sooner than you think.
🚂 A Heritage Train Through Czech Canada
The tiny station practically radiated old-world nostalgia. The train was packed with tourists, weekenders, children, and mushroom hunters. Today, the railway still alternates between vintage diesel railcars and historic steam locomotives.
No, speed was definitely not its main selling point. Covering the 24-kilometer track from Nová Bystřice to Jindřichův Hradec took well over an hour. But what a beautiful hour it was! I am incredibly grateful that this little railway managed to survive.
The train carries us through stunning forest corridors that cannot even be compared to traveling by car on a sterile asphalt road. Leaving Nová Bystřice, the narrow-gauge tracks trace an endless, sweeping arc around the villages of Blato, Hůrky, and the sprawling Osika pond.
📍 The Narrow-Gauge Railway Depots
Upon arriving in Jindřichův Hradec, make sure to check out the small railway museum located right inside the station depot. It beautifully showcases the history of a track that has survived everything since 1897—though it barely managed to survive the harsh market capitalism of the post-communist era.
Fortunately, today the depot in Jindřichův Hradec is fully accessible again, and the Regional Narrow-Gauge Museum in Nová Bystřice is also up and running. If you love the raw smell of grease, vintage iron, and steam, do not miss this.
🏙️ Jindřichův Hradec: A Town Built Around a Lake
The town itself is a visual masterpiece, but it features a major anatomical anomaly. Right in the dead center of the town, you won’t find a classic stone square with a fountain. Instead, there is a massive, 49-hectare lake called Vajgar. This aquatic giant splits the town in two, giving it an undeniable seaside resort vibe—just with the distinct aroma of South Bohemian mud and freshwater carp instead of sea salt.
Vajgar is both a blessing and a curse for Hradec. Locals train for rowing competitions here, and photographers chase textbook sunsets reflecting off the castle walls. However, if you don’t pay close attention to your navigation, you might end up in the water along with your bike.
The most bizarre feature is the small artificial island right in the middle of the lake. In the 19th century, a local count had it built as a romantic gift for his wife. Today, however, the island is completely ruled by ducks and swans, which seem to enjoy far greater privileges than the town’s actual human citizens.
🏰 Jindřichův Hradec Chateau & Castle
The chateau complex offers several tour routes. When we first visited shortly after the Velvet Revolution, the entire place was undergoing massive renovations and was practically crumbling to pieces. Back then, you could wander anywhere you pleased; I vividly remember running freely through the old chapel and the medieval black kitchen. Today, the Jindřichův Hradec Chateau is completely restored and rightfully ranks among the greatest cultural gems of the Czech republic.
Right next to the castle entrance, you can also view Krýza’s Crèche (Krýzovy jesličky)—the largest mechanical nativity scene in the world, certified by the Guinness Book of World Records. It is a spectacular piece of folk engineering that is absolutely worth seeing.
🍲 The Giant Black Kitchen and Culinary Black Magic
When you walk past the castle’s historic black kitchen, try to picture this: back in the 16th century, the Lords of Hradec used to host massive charitable feasts here that bordered on absolute madness. Every Maundy Thursday, they cooked a traditional dish called “sweet white porridge” (made from wheat, honey, and almond milk) for thousands of poor people from across the region.
However, the operation had three bizarre elements:
- The Giant Pots: The kitchen was so cavernous and the cauldrons so enormous that the cooks had to stir the porridge using actual ship oars. They also walked around the kitchen on special stilts just to avoid falling into the boiling food.
- The Ghostly Auditor: According to local lore, the ghost of Markéta of Hardegg (the famous “White Lady” of the castle) personally monitored the recipe. Legend has it that if the cooks burned the porridge or skimped on the expensive ingredients, the White Lady would haunt and slap them at night.
- Gluttony to the Grave: Alongside the porridge, the lords distributed 900 carps, thousands of liters of beer, and tons of bread. The feast was so gigantic that people would routinely overeat to the point of medical emergencies. When a later owner tried to cancel the tradition due to the astronomical costs, the locals revolted, believing that skipping the porridge would bring plague and famine upon the town. The tradition survived for an incredible 300 years!
While you won’t find ship oars in the kitchen today, the monumental black kitchen still stands and remains one of the best-preserved medieval kitchens in Europe. Stepping inside, the raw atmosphere of medieval culinary history hits you instantly.
📸 The Photographer’s Waterfront Trail
Despite all the grand castle courtyards, I consider a completely different path to be the most scenic route for photography. It’s the trail winding through the lower castle district (podzámčí), tracking the old fortifications and the stream toward the ponds.
As you walk here at dusk, the Nežárka River rushes to your left, while the smooth surface of Lake Vajgar gleams to your right. You suddenly get the distinct feeling that Jindřichův Hradec isn’t a town with a lake, but rather a massive lake around which someone casually built Gothic alleys and Renaissance palaces as a joke. It’s the perfect spot to grab a seat on a terrace, enjoy a cold brew, and watch the sun melt into the water along with your remaining office stress. Just keep one thing in mind: you are firmly in Budvar brewery territory here.
🚂 Taking the Wrong Train to Obrataň
As our day rapidly drew to a close, we wanted to head back into the heart of Czech Canada in time for a late evening beer. The train station is located quite a distance from the historical town center. Naturally, we managed to board the wrong train, stepped into the wrong car, and only realized our mistake several stations deep on the route toward Obrataň. 😅
Fortunately, the conductor was incredibly kind. He let us off right next to a local pub serving excellent, ice-cold Budvar. So, in the end, our journey back to our cabin required an unscheduled car ride rescue.
ℹ️ How Does the Railway Work in 2026?
Fortunately, my old pessimistic predictions didn’t come to pass. While the JHMD (Jindřichův Hradec Narrow-Gauge Railway) went through operational hell and no longer runs as a standard daily commuter line for locals, the tracks never went to waste.
Today, the line functions beautifully as a seasonal tourist highlight. From late spring through autumn, historic steam locomotives and nostalgic diesel railcars chug down the tracks on weekends (and on select days during the summer holidays).
- Practical Trip Tip: Pack your bike, board the train in Nová Bystřice, enjoy the nostalgic ride to Jindřichův Hradec, explore the castle, and cycle your way back into Czech Canada via the forest trails surrounding the Osika and Blato ponds.
- Timetables: Make sure to check the current operational schedules directly on the operator’s website before heading out, as train times adapt dynamically to the tourist season.
