Located in the northern Czech Republic, within the Bohemian Switzerland National Park—widely regarded as one of Europe’s most stunning natural landscapes—lies the legendary hiking circuit of Jetřichovické vyhlídky (the Jetřichovice Circuit) with three Jetřichovice Viewpoints. One of the most beautiful hikes you can experience in the Czech mountains awaits: the ascent to Rudolfův kámen and the surrounding vistas.
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I didn’t manage much on the bike today, nor did I move particularly fast. The main reason? My camera. You stop to take a photo every 300 metres; it’s simply impossible to keep a pace.
🥾 Purkartice Forest – Kulíšek – Vilemínina stěna – Rudolfův kámen – Mariina skála – Jetřichovice | GPS Strava trek here > |
I usually only push hard in the second half of the day if I absolutely have to. Here, I had to. Nature won’t let you off easy. We set out as a trio: me, my wife Hanka, and our Belgian Shepherd, Lejdy. After the first few steps into the Purkartice forest, we noticed several altitude markers. Those tiny specks moving up there? Those were people. You tell yourself: “It’s only 10 kilometres, it’s not that high.” In truth, going this way, it actually felt quite easy.
Purkartice Forest
My First Taste of Loneliness.
It was in the Purkartice forest that I experienced my first moment of isolation. Hanka announced: “I’m done, this isn’t for me. I’ll wait for you downstairs with a coffee.” Two of us remained on the path, but Beky’s eyes didn’t look promising. She is terrified of heights. She hates ladders, and she hates my hiking performance even more. On one side, her mistress leaving; on the other, her love and devotion to her master. You guessed it—love for her mistress and laziness won.
I was left completely alone before I even reached Rudolfův kámen. But what followed definitively sealed my love for hiking. It was everything: stairs, leaps, chains, railings, 300-metre drops beneath my feet, and viewpoints that were simply spectacular. If you find yourself in Bohemian Switzerland, do not miss this trek.
Jetřichovice circuit
It’s like a fairy tale carved in stone, set against the most breathtaking natural scenery. At least, that was the case before the fire. On the other hand, the fire revealed the rock formations.
Rudolfův kámen: 170 Stairs of “Mordor”
This is the ultimate test for your knees and your “pub fitness.” There are exactly 170 stairs and ladders. Originally, the rock was called Ostrý kámen or Balzerovo ležení, but Rudolf’s Stone sounds far more majestic.
Vilemínina stěna: A Romantic Legacy
Named after Wilhelmina Kinský, the wife of Prince Rudolf, this spot was originally called Černá stěna (Black Wall). The history of the Kinský noble family adds a lovely romantic undertone to the narrative.
Mariina vyhlídka and the New Gazebo
Since 2021, a new wooden gazebo has stood here, replacing the old, “rickety” one from the 19th century. This is an important detail, as many tourists still have that old structure in their minds. The new one is sturdier and offers much better protection from the wind.
Finally, I made a quick dash to the remains of Falkenštejn Castle. The Jetřichovice circuit, via Rudolfův kámen, truly belongs among the best experiences not only in Bohemian Switzerland but in the entire Czech Republic.
The Post-Fire Contrast
From these viewpoints, you see the most striking difference: on one side, lush green valleys spared by the fire; on the other, “silvery” slopes with charred trunks. It is the most visually powerful spot to grasp the extent of the 2022 forest fire.
Bohemian Switzerland NP
A Landscape Shaped by Sea and Time
This national park is one of the four most valuable natural areas in the Czech Republic. It was established in 2000 to protect its unique sandstone rock cities, arches, and towering formations that rise above vast forests. Three rivers flow through the park — the Kamenice, Křinice, and Elbe. Each of them has carved a spectacular canyon into the landscape.
The name Bohemian Switzerland was borrowed from the German term Saxon Switzerland (Sächsische Schweiz). Since the 18th century, this name has been used for the German part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. According to a popular story, two Swiss painters, Adrian Zingg and Anton Graff, gave the region its name because the rocky scenery reminded them of their homeland.
These rocks are actually the remains of sediment deposits dating back to the age of dinosaurs. Around 100 million years ago, this area lay beneath a warm, shallow sea. For tens of millions of years, rivers carried sand here from the regions that are now the Krkonoše and Jizera Mountains.
Then the entire landscape slowly rose, the sea retreated, and vast layers of sandstone remained behind. Time relentlessly sculpted and eroded them until most of the original mass disappeared. What we admire today is only a small fraction of what once existed. Even these surviving formations continue to crumble and change before our eyes.
Views during the descent to Jetřichovice.
Jetřichovice
When “Homemade” Means the Freezer. It was our Gastronomic Awakening.
Down in the village, the rest of the crew was waiting for me. Beky was wagging her tail, clearly relieved that I was back and that she hadn’t been forced to climb with me. Hanka was already scouting for a good meal. After such an effort, we deserved a proper lunch. We stopped at a beautiful timber cottage beneath the cliff, promising “authentic homemade Czech cuisine.”
“Have the chicken soup and the plum dumplings—they’re great.,“ the owner suggested.
We followed his advice and bought some broth from the supermarket made with “Vegeta” seasoning and frozen vegetables. It came with a pre-packaged, dried “plum dumpling” straight from the freezer, very lightly sprinkled with poppy seeds. Really, very lightly.
At the end, the waiter arrived with a massive calculator in hand: “Did you enjoy it?” He began to tally the bill, and our eyes started rolling. We stayed silent. This, too, is a facet of Czech hospitality.
There are certainly places in Bohemian Switzerland where they make them from fresh cottage cheese dough—that’s a true culinary experience worth indulging in. We weren’t that lucky.
Doubice
After that, it was all social positives. The local shop, buřty (sausages), fresh sourdough bread, and beer… Brain Spa and the Return to Basics in Doubice. This is why we come here. For the peace and quiet. Yes, they have Wi-Fi and a colour TV with 64 mostly German channels, but for what? In the evening, better things await.
After all, a flickering fire has always been more interesting than television commercials or chatting online. Have you ever noticed that, aside from a bear running after you, sitting by a campfire is one of the few moments when a human completely forgets their “civilized” habits? I haven’t seen so many stars in the sky for a very long time.
Practical Tips
📌 The Jetřichovice Circuit around four viewpoints
Based on my experience with Beky—no, not if your dog is afraid of heights or vertical ladders. While the trails are manageable, the final ascents to the viewpoints involve narrow iron stairs that are difficult for most dogs.
While Mariina vyhlídka is the icon, Rudolfův kámen offers the most adrenaline. The 170 stairs are a challenge, but the 360-degree view from the wooden gazebo at the very peak is unparalleled.
Yes, the main trails are open and safe. However, the contrast between the unburnt and burnt forest is stark. Always stay on marked paths as the terrain in charred areas can be unstable.
