We perceive Kyjovské údolí (the Kyjov Valley) as a genuine “brain spa,” where the silence of the sandstone rocks and the chill of the Křinice stream reliably erase every ounce of urban stress. You don’t need any expensive meditation apps here.
All you need are a good pair of boots and a willingness to admit that in this corner of Bohemian Switzerland, nature clearly holds the upper hand. Whenever we grow weary of the crowds under the famous Pravčická brána, we head right here—to the deep canyon of the Křinice stream.
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We’ve been clearing our heads here for years, and we keep coming back. Even though the world outside has gone mad in the meantime, time in this forgotten village and deep canyon still flows only according to the rhythm of the water hitting the boulders. Moreover, the forest here has preserved its thick, green face even after the devastating fire of 2022.
Doubice
Wooden Bizarre and Beer Exile
Enter the village, and instead of people, you are greeted by hundreds of wooden spirits. Dragons, fairytale creatures, and even life-sized wooden politicians guard the meadows surrounding the legendary Stará Hospoda (The Old Inn). Doubice is an anomaly. We consider it the capital of Czech “chill,” where reality bends according to the mood of local woodcarver Karel Fiala.
Our beer fitness always takes a beating here. We sat on the terrace, ordered a frosty reward, and watched this wooden circus. It’s a place where no one is in a hurry. If they are, the locals quickly cure them with a well-timed, sharp remark.
Kyjovské údolí
| MTB trek on Strava here > |
This is our regular therapy of forest and vanished worlds. From Doubice, we always move on our bikes to Kyjov, which is essentially just one street and a few cottages guarding the entrance to the gorge. Over the eons, the Křinice stream has carved a deep scar into the landscape. You walk or cycle along the canyon floor, while rock formations with names like The Sphinx or The Lion watch you with stony indifference.
Unlike at Pravčická brána, don’t expect any stalls selling overpriced magnets here. We found only the scent of pine needles and a sacred peace. Try the climb to Kyjovský hrad (Kyjov Castle). Our lungs protested on those steep stairs, but the view of the endless sea of forest quickly shut them up.
Kyjov used to be a glassmaking centre; today, only moss and silence reign. We set off on foot following the yellow markers, huffing and puffing up to the Kinský Lookout, but the view instantly silenced us. The sandstone here forms a labyrinth in which we love to lose ourselves.
Zadní Doubice
Our “heart” spot remains the Brothers’ Altar (Bratrský oltář). It’s a hidden rock terrace where, during times of religious persecution, worshippers gathered in secret. You can feel the humility there. A little further on, we came across Zadní Doubice.
Here, nature takes back its debts. We pushed deeper into the valley on our bikes to a place you can no longer find on a map. After the war, the original inhabitants were expelled from Zadní Doubice, and the houses were left to their fate.
Hinterhermsdorf
Today, you only see foundations swallowed by moss and a memorial to the victims of the death march. It is a chilling place. It shows us that we are only on a short visit here. Nature elegantly cleans up the traces of human existence and does so with a chilling silence. We rode all the way to the Border Mill (Hraniční mlýn) and further into Germany to the Hinterhermsdorf observation tower.
Returning, the route brings you to Brtníky. In winter, everyone seeks the Fairies’ Cave (Jeskyně víl) with its amazing ice stalactites, but even in summer, this valley has its charm. We walked to Brtnický hrádek—another rock fortress where perhaps outlaws once dried their laundry.
Kyjov Loop: Testing Your Soles
The route through the valley is no stroll through a shopping mall. The path leads you through narrow rock fissures and slippery roots. When we finally scrambled up to the Brothers’ Altar, we understood why people in times of religious persecution hid here.
Sandstone reveals no secrets. Then and now, it offers shelter to anyone seeking freedom from the world out there. Kyjovské údolí is not just a tourist mark; for us, it is a state of mind.
| hiking trek on Strava here > | Kyjovské údolí – Dam – Doubice crossroads
Krásná Lípa
For the morning and the bike, we’ve called it a day. We enjoyed a gentle 2 km descent on tarmac into the administrative heart of the National Park—Krásná Lípa. The first sight of dilapidated houses on the outskirts might not justify the name, but don’t be discouraged. It’s only when you reach the main square that you truly understand how beautiful it is.
Especially if you discover the private Falkenštejn Brewery with its craft specials. It is also worth visiting the Bohemian Switzerland Centre. The staff are well-prepared, and you’ll see and learn a lot. We move back to Doubice by car. The evening campfire at the cottage is calling.
📌 Doubice and Kyjov: Practical Tips
Yes. You can visit the entire area near Stará Hospoda in Doubice anytime and without paying. Children love the hundreds of statues, while you can test the quality of the local tap.
The main trail through the valley along the Křinice is suitable for cyclists. However, if you want to see the best viewpoints like Kyjovský hrad, you’d better set the bike aside. The stairs and narrow rock fissures are really not cyclist-friendly.
The good news is that the 2022 fire barely touched this part of the National Park. Kyjovské údolí has thus preserved its thick green character, which is currently missing in other parts of Bohemian Switzerland.
You will find the most spots directly in Doubice near Stará Hospoda or at the small car park in Kyjov right at the entrance to the valley. It gets crowded here on weekends, so arrive early.
The floor of the valley is manageable for everyone; it’s almost flat. However, if you turn off to the viewpoints, prepare for steep ladders and rocks. Our knees could tell stories, but the feeling at the top is worth the effort.
