The tram system in Alicante is a direct invitation to explore. In my case, it was no different. But a little advice: the trip to Benidorm takes 75 minutes, and there are no toilets on board. Benidorm vs Altea: Two Tourist Worlds on a Single Rail
When the Tram Stops in the Middle of Nowhere
Somewhere past the Venta Lanuza station, we stopped in a field for the second time, waiting for an oncoming tram. I was crossing my legs, wiping cold sweat from my forehead, and praying to the Spanish Madonna to move us along.
At a station fittingly named Paradis, I made a split-second decision. I jumped off and ran into the field. And that is how I discovered the Spanish countryside—and the largest bell pepper of my life.
The Virgin Mary answered my prayers. Salvation came in the form of a 1.3-kilogram monster. It’s leaning against a liter bottle of kefir, and I’ve been eating it for four days. 🙂
Benidorm: A Vertical Hive That Doesn’t Know When to Stop
First impressions of Benidorm? Make no mistake—this isn’t a city; it’s a diagnosis. Hundreds of Babylonian towers of consumerism scream into the sky: “We still have vacant apartments!”
It’s a jumble where bricklayers and electricians mingle with taxi drivers, old ladies in wheelchairs, and young men trying to hit on girls. Everything is for sale here. You see young women in bikinis, as well as many seniors decked out in brands like Gant, Camp David, or NY, as if those logos were meant to cover up the emptiness of the place.
It is a human hive. Pure chaos subordinated to a single god: Money. In Benidorm, you won’t find a square meter without commercial use. If one exists, a developer is likely pouring concrete over it this very second.
I’ve felt this before—when developers simply didn’t know when to say “enough.” Slovakia’s Jasná or Bulgaria’s Sunny Beach come to mind. I honestly don’t understand how anyone can “enjoy a vacation” here.
It is a massive, rolling tide of tourists who have no idea what they want, yet seek it with desperate urgency, hoping for a “wild experience” in exchange for their cash.
The Escape to Line 9: Benidorm vs Altea
Actually, I didn’t just escape Benidorm; I was liberated from it. Those in the know don’t stay at the L1 terminus; they transfer to Line 9 and continue toward Altea. Just a few kilometers down the tracks, and the air clears.
If Benidorm is a high-decibel “human hive,” Altea is its silent, white-washed soul. Just a few kilometers away, the world changes. The concrete giants are replaced by narrow, pebble-stone alleys and low, lime-white houses that feel like they’ve been pulled straight out of a Mediterranean dream.
Photo-nirvana starts at the station. Walk twenty steps toward the blue domes on the hill, and you are in a fairy tale.
Altea: White Houses and Sleepy Peace
White houses with tiled roofs, courtyard entrances that look like painted stage sets, and an all-pervading silence. The atmosphere is so calm you feel the sea below is crashing against the beach a little softer, just to avoid disturbing the peace.
Benidorm vs Altea: Why Altea Wins
- The Atmosphere: While Benidorm shouts, Altea whispers. It’s an artist’s sanctuary. You’ll find local galleries, artisan shops, and a sense of “mañana” (tomorrow) that actually feels relaxing rather than lazy.
- The Church Square (Plaza de la Iglesia): The heart of the Old Town (Casco Antiguo). The blue-domed church of Nuestra Señora del Consuelo is the iconic landmark. The square is the perfect place for people-watching with a glass of local wine.
- The “Paella” Factor: This is the ultimate practical proof of the difference. In Benidorm, a touristy paella might feel like a mass-produced trap. In Altea, we found authentic, soul-warming paella for as little as 5 EUR – compared to the 17 EUR “visual smog” traps elsewhere.
Practical Traveler Info
- Getting There: The most authentic way is the TRAM Metropolitano (Line 9). It’s a scenic ride that hugs the coast. If you are coming from Benidorm, it’s a quick 15-minute trip.
- Walking vs. Driving: Don’t even try to drive into the heart of the Old Town. Park your car at the bottom (near the promenade) and walk up. Yes, it’s a bit of a climb through the steep alleys, but every corner is a photo opportunity.
- When to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon. The light hitting the white walls is magical, and you’ll avoid the midday heat. Plus, late evening is when the local restaurants truly come to life.
- Budget Tip: Look for the “Menu del Día” in the smaller side streets away from the main square. You can get a 3-course meal with wine for a fraction of what you’d pay on the beachfront.
