We chose Starigrad & Paklenica for our vacation, primarily to explore Paklenica National Park in the Velebit mountain range. I wanted to see the iconic filming locations of the famous Winnetou movies with my own eyes. Dramatic canyons, towering limestone cliffs, and deep gorges served as the ultimate backdrop for legendary western adventures in the 1960s.
Turquoise Rio Pecos from a Bird’s-Eye View
You can easily drive to the famous Pueblo Plateau (Pariževačka glavica) from Starigrad toward the town of Obrovac. The breathtaking viewpoint overlooks the winding canyon of the Zrmanja River.
This vibrant turquoise river represented the legendary Rio Pecos in the movies. Film directors built the Apache village on this very rocky plateau. Down in the canyon, Winnetou and Old Shatterhand became blood brothers. If you are searching for the most picturesque canyon view in Croatia, this spot is an absolute must-visit.
💡 Velebit Highlights
- Movie Magic: Directors filmed key scenes for Winnetou I, Treasure of Silver Lake, and Among Vultures inside Paklenica National Park and around the Zrmanja River.
- Manita Peć Cave: This is the only show cave open to visitors inside Paklenica National Park. It extends 175 meters underground, featuring massive dripstone formations. Temperatures inside stay around 9°C year-round, so pack a warm layer!
- The Legend of Večka Kula: This 16th-century defense tower sits right on the pebble beach. Local legend speaks of King Pasoglav (a mythical king with a dog’s head) who ruled from the tower and kept his identity secret from the outside world.
Velika Paklenica: From Paved Paths to Real Trails
The entrance to Velika Paklenica canyon disappointed me slightly at first. A paved road stretches deep into the canyon from the main entrance. While informative signs mark specific Winnetou filming spots, walking on flat asphalt lacked a true wilderness feel.
However, real alpine hiking started immediately where the paved road ended. The trail began climbing steeply via winding switchbacks between massive rock faces. It led us directly to Manita peć cave. Exploring this underground realm of ancient stalactites and stalagmites made the steep uphill hike completely worthwhile.
Mystical Escape to Mali Vitrenik and the Mirila Stones
Hiking from Starigrad to the summit of Mali Vitrenik (410 m n.m.) offered a fantastic escape from the tourist crowds into the rugged wilderness of the southern Velebit range. Although directors did not film Winnetou scenes on this specific peak, the trail feels wild, raw, and authentic.
Before reaching the summit, we discovered a quiet, beautifully preserved site—the Mirila stone monuments. A fascinating cultural tradition connects to this place. When someone passed away in the high mountains, locals carried the body down to the valley village. Bearers placed the body on the ground at this specific resting spot for the very first time.
They measured the deceased’s length and arranged flat stones to mark their exact head and foot outlines. Locals believed that while the physical body belonged to the earth, the person’s soul remained forever resting at the Mirila stone.
Higher up the trail, we encountered another amazing surprise. Right on the path below the summit, a herd of semi-wild horses grazed quietly, guarded by a donkey wearing a brass neck bell. Local farmers own these free-roaming animals, using the bells to track them across the dense scrubland. The gentle ringing echoing through the quiet mountain valley created an unforgettable, mystical atmosphere.
Evening Magic by the Sea
After a full day in the mountains, evening strolls along the coast offered pure relaxation. The setting sun painted the Adriatic coastline in warm orange hues. The towering shadow of the Velebit range loomed above, reminding us of nature’s massive scale
Our favorite evening stop was Večka Kula—the ruins of a 16th-century defense tower standing directly on the pebble shoreline of Kulina Beach.
From the dramatic canyons of Winnetou to the wild ridges of the Velebit range and quiet sunsets by historic ruins, Starigrad delivered an unforgettable blend of contrasts.
It revealed two faces of Croatia: one born of cinema, and the other untamed and wild. Sometimes, you just need to turn off the GPS, step off the main path, and let nature tell its stories.
