Iceland is not a manicured theme park. When you decide to skip the all-inclusive beach resorts, grab a tent, rent an older 4×4 SUV, and embark on a 10-day expedition around the entire island in mid-September, you are in for an unforgettable adventure.
Traveling in shoulder season offers major perks — fewer crowds at iconic spots and front-row seats to the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis). But it also means sub-zero nights, freezing gale-force winds, closed seasonal campsites, and river crossings that will test your nerves.
Here is our complete 10-day Ring Road (Route 1) itinerary, including Highland detours, must-see sights, gear realities, and practical tips.
Trip Overview & Quick Facts
- Total Distance: Approx. 2,200 km (1,360 miles) including detours to Landmannalaugar and Reykjanes
- Trip Duration: 10 full days on the island
- Vehicle: 4×4 SUV (older Honda CR-V / RAV4 with 370,000 km, essential for F-roads)
- Accommodation: 70% tent camping, 30% emergency guesthouses/hostels (when gear failed or camps were closed)
- Travel Window: Mid-September (Autumn shoulder season)
Day 1: Arrival, Reykjavík & Midnight Arrival in Þingvellir
- Route: Keflavík Airport → Reykjavík → Þingvellir National Park (~100 km)
- Key Stops: 4×4 vehicle pickup, Sun Voyager (Sólfar), Hallgrímskirkja church, Þingvellir campground
Arriving from Central Europe, the arctic wind and 5 °C (41 °F) air immediately set the tone. We picked up our seasoned 4×4 rental — a veteran with 370,000 km on the clock.
After a quick walk through vibrant Reykjavík to admire Hallgrímskirkja and the Sun Voyager sculpture, we stocked up on supplies at a local Bónus supermarket and headed straight into the night toward Þingvellir National Park. Pitching a tent by headlamp in freezing winds provided an instant baptism of fire.
Day 2: The Golden Circle & The Highlands (Landmannalaugar)
- Route: Þingvellir → Geysir & Strokkur → Gullfoss → F208 → Landmannalaugar (~180 km)
- Key Stops: Almannagjá tectonic rift, Strokkur geyser, Gullfoss waterfall, F208 gravel road, Landmannalaugar thermal river
We began by exploring the world-famous Golden Circle:
- Þingvellir: The historic site of the world’s oldest parliament (Alþingi), situated right where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates pull apart.
- Strokkur: An active geyser erupting boiling water up to 20 meters high every 6–10 minutes.
- Gullfoss: A thunderous, two-tiered glacial waterfall carving through a rugged canyon.
Leaving the tarmac behind, we engaged 4WD and tackled the mountain track F208 into Landmannalaugar. The 26 km washboard gravel road shook the entire car, but the dramatic shift to black volcanic deserts and rhyolite mountains made every bump worth it.
After fording several shallow streams, we pitched our tent at the Landmannalaugar base camp and soaked in the natural 39 °C (102 °F) hot river beneath the volcanic lava field.
Day 3: South Coast Waterfalls & The Þórsmörk Turnaround
- Route: Landmannalaugar → Þjófafoss → Seljalandsfoss → Hvolsvöllur (~140 km)
- Key Stops: Þjófafoss, Þórsmörk river crossings attempt, Seljalandsfoss, Aurora Borealis display
Packing a soaked tent in freezing rain taught us speed. Our goal was the secluded valley of Þórsmörk. We successfully crossed five river fords, but at the sixth glacial crossing, water depth measured over 40 cm against strong currents — well above our car’s air intake. Knowing rental insurance excludes water damage, we made the sensible call to turn around.
Later, we visited Seljalandsfoss, walking the slippery trail directly behind the cascading 60-meter water curtain. That night at the Hvolsvöllur campsite rewarded us with our first vibrant, green Northern Lights display dancing across the sky.
Read also
- Wild north and west Iceland,
- Driving F-roads and the Golden Circle
- Camping in Iceland—what you need to know
Day 4: Black Sand Beaches, Puffins & A Car Swap
- Route: Hvolsvöllur → Skógafoss → Dyrhólaey → Kirkjubæjarklaustur (~160 km)
- Key Stops: Skógafoss waterfall, Dyrhólaey sea arch, Reynisfjara black sand views, Systrafoss
The morning started with a hike along the river above the massive Skógafoss waterfall. Continuing eastward to the cliffs of Dyrhólaey, we searched for Atlantic puffins — only to learn from locals that they migrate out to the open ocean by late August.
Our car began misfiring near Kirkjubæjarklaustur. The local campsite was already closed for the season, so we checked into a nearby emergency hostel while the rental agency promptly dispatched a replacement vehicle within three hours.
Day 5: Glacial Lagoons & The Foggy Eastern Fjords
- Route: Kirkjubæjarklaustur → Skaftafell (Svartifoss) → Jökulsárlón → Seyðisfjörður (~380 km)
- Key Stops: Svartifoss basalt column waterfall, Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, Seyðisfjörður mountain pass
In Skaftafell National Park, we hiked to Svartifoss, framed by geometric black basalt organ pipes.
Shortly after, we reached Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. Giant luminous-blue icebergs calving off the Vatnajökull ice cap floated peacefully past curious seals toward the Atlantic Ocean.
The driving day concluded with a dramatic climb over the mountain pass into the picturesque fjord town of Seyðisfjörður through dense, milk-like fog with visibility under 15 meters.
Day 6: The Volcanic North: Dettifoss & Dimmuborgir
- Route: Seyðisfjörður → Dettifoss → Námafjall/Hverir → Dimmuborgir → Goðafoss → Akureyri (~310 km)
- Key Stops: Dettifoss (Europe’s most powerful waterfall), Hverir bubbling mud pools, Dimmuborgir lava field, Goðafoss
North Iceland is raw and alien:
- Dettifoss: The ground trembles under the fury of Europe’s most powerful waterfall plunging into Jökulsárgljúfur canyon.
- Hverir (Námafjall): Steaming fumaroles, boiling grey mud cauldrons, and intense sulfur vapors.
- Dimmuborgir: A vast labyrinth of twisted volcanic rock formations steeped in Icelandic folklore.
- Goðafoss (Waterfall of the Gods): Where Chieftain Þorgeir threw his pagan idols into the falls around the year 1000 to declare Christianity Iceland’s official religion.
We concluded the day in Akureyri, Iceland’s capital of the north.
Day 7: Whale Watching Safari in Eyjafjörður
- Route: Akureyri → Glaumbær → Laugarbakki (~210 km)
- Key Stops: RIB boat whale watching in Eyjafjörður fjord, Glaumbær historic turf farm, Laugarbakki
In Akureyri, we boarded an adrenaline-filled RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) excursion into the Eyjafjörður fjord. Suited up in thermal flotation suits in freezing rain, we were rewarded with breathtaking, close-up encounters with several humpback whales surfacing and tail-slapping just meters from our boat.
Heading west, we toured Glaumbær, an authentic 18th-century farm built from thick insulating turf sods, before spending the night in Laugarbakki.
Day 8: Lava Tubes, Grábrók Crater & Hraunfossar
- Route: Laugarbakki → Grábrók → Deildartunguhver → Hraunfossar & Barnafoss → Surtshellir → Akranes (~260 km)
- Key Stops: Grábrók volcanic crater rim hike, Deildartunguhver thermal spring, Hraunfossar waterfalls, Surtshellir lava cave
Day eight delivered outstanding geological highlights:
- Grábrók: A perfectly preserved volcanic cone offering 360-degree views over mossy lava fields.
- Hraunfossar: Clear turquoise springs emerging directly from beneath the porous Hallmundarhraun lava field over a span of nearly a kilometer.
- Surtshellir: A dark, rugged subterranean lava tube explored by headlamp.
Day 9: Kerið Crater & Relaxing in the Blue Lagoon
- Route: Akranes → Kerið → Stokkseyri → Grindavík → Blue Lagoon (~190 km)
- Key Stops: Kerið crater lake, southern coastline, Blue Lagoon geothermal spa
Completing our loop around the Reykjanes peninsula, we visited Kerið, a 3,000-year-old volcanic caldera filled with vivid aquamarine water.
We wrapped up the grueling camping trip with an evening at the Blue Lagoon. Soaking in 39 °C silica-rich, milky-blue geothermal water was the ultimate physical recovery after nine days of cold camping.
Day 10: Departure from Keflavík
- Route: Grindavík → Keflavík Airport (~25 km)
- Key Stops: Packing up, returning the rental vehicle, flight home
After a final rainy camp takedown, we returned the vehicle and boarded our flight home with unforgettable memories of raw volcanic landscapes.
Essential Takeaways for Driving the Ring Road
- Invest in a Sub-Zero Sleeping Bag: A standard summer bag is dangerous in Iceland. Use a 3-season or winter sleeping bag rated to at least -5 °C (23 °F) with a high R-value (>3.5) insulated sleeping mat.
- 4×4 is Mandatory for the Highlands: If you plan to leave Route 1 for F-roads (like Landmannalaugar), a 4×4 vehicle is legally required and essential for safety.
- Never Pass a Petrol Station: In northern and eastern stretches, fuel stations are few and far between. Always top up your tank when you see an automated pump.
- Respect the Wind: When opening vehicle doors, hold them firmly with both hands to avoid costly wind-buckling damage.
- Bookmark Official Weather & Road Portals: Check vedur.is for hourly weather/aurora forecasts and road.is / safetravel.is for road closures and storm alerts every morning.
