Located in southern Portugal, in the sun-drenched Algarve region, lies the city of Faro. It’s been a few years since I first discovered the endless sands of Praia de Faro. When I first started exercising, I was 47 years old and weighed a solid 136 kilograms (around 300 lbs). Tying my shoelaces was an act of acrobatics, and walking up a single flight of stairs without an oxygen tank felt like a miracle. High blood pressure, cholesterol, obesity—the classic lineup.
A few years later, I bought a cheap off-season flight to Faro, discovered its beaches and the Ria Formosa lagoon, rented a car from Avis for €7 a day, and made a bet with myself: I would run 100 kilometres along the Atlantic beaches in a single week. If I didn’t drop dead first.
How to Turn a Transit Airport into a Running and Travel Paradise
Most tourists pass Faro by in 15 minutes. If that. They hop off the plane, board a tour operator bus, and speed off to commercial resorts. They are making a huge mistake. The area around Faro conceals not only the endless sandy stretch of Praia de Faro, but also one of the most fascinating natural ecosystems in Europe: the Ria Formosa wetland park.
Praia de Faro and Bearfoot Running
I landed in the afternoon. I picked up the rental car and, instead of booking expensive hotels, anchored myself in an Airbnb located right between the airport and the beach. For my very first test, I headed straight for Praia de Faro.
This multi-kilometre beach, with sand as fine as pastry flour, lies on a narrow sandy island (Ilha de Faro) connected to the mainland by a single one-lane bridge. In summer, you’ll stand here in endless traffic jams, but off-season? It’s ruled solely by surfers, fishermans, the wind, and absolute silence.
The local settlement, which is connected by a wooden bridge and seems remarkably self-sufficient, is truly bizarre.
Only when I arrived on the sand did I realize that the two pairs of running shoes I had hauled with me in my luggage were completely useless. I tossed the shoes aside and ran barefoot.
Why Barefoot Beach Running Is Divine (And Why Your Calves Will Scream the Next Day)
Running barefoot in the wet sand at the ocean’s edge is pure catharsis. Your feet sink in, and occasionally a cold Atlantic wave washes over your ankles, but you couldn’t care less. The rolling surf, the sound of the sea, the sun. Instead of a concrete drill, you get a natural foot massage.
There is a catch, though: sand running engages entirely different muscle groups. The next morning, your calves and Achilles tendons won’t just wake up—they will loudly protest.
After 12 kilometres along the beach (yes, it really is that long), I added a bonus: 3 kilometres right across the Ria Formosa Natural Park.
Ria Formosa – The 7th Natural Wonder of Portugal
Ria Formosa is no ordinary park. It is a 60-kilometre labyrinth of lagoons, salt marshes, dune islands, and channels, rightfully voted one of the 7 Natural Wonders of Portugal.
- Flamingos and Chameleons: It’s a crucial pit stop for thousands of migratory birds. If you’re lucky, you’ll run past flocks of pink flamingos. I, personally, was not that lucky.
- Gastro-Economy: Up to 80% of all Portuguese bivalves (mussels, oysters, clams) are cultivated in these marshes. Hundreds of traditional harvesting families live here, stepping into the water with nothing more than hoes and baskets.
Quinta do Lago – Running from the Marshes into Billionaire Territory
On one of the days of this running challenge, I plotted a route through Quinta do Lago. It’s a bizarre and surreal contrast: running straight from the wild marshes of Ria Formosa, where harvesters pull clams from the mud, into a world of manicured lawns, private golf resorts, interconnected luxury villas with pools, and desalination fields in between.
Quinta do Lago is the Mecca of European high society, British aristocrats, and star footballers. Running through here in a dusty t-shirt with blisters on your feet among the latest Bentley cars has a very specific charm. The route leads across magnificent wooden boardwalks (Pontal de Quinta do Lago) that crisscross the salt marshes.
It was right here, with a mandatory 17 km already in my legs, that I told myself: “Mainly, don’t stop.”
In running, the exact same rules apply as on a bicycle. When you think you can’t go any further, focus on technique: “Lengthen your stride, steady your breath, straighten your shoulders, engage your arms.” And a kilometre blows by before you even notice. The result of the day? A half-marathon in the bag.
However, the ocean sets its own rules. The path I had run along in the morning towards the golf greens was submerged knee-deep in seawater by the evening. The high tide allowed me to give aqua-jogging a go.
Faro Old Town: A Chapel of Bones and Medieval Refuge
When you’ve recharged your batteries after a run and feel up for a cultural reset, drive into the centre of Faro. I admit, during all the running, I almost overlooked it myself. Most people only know Faro for its airport transfer. Yet the Old Town (Vila Adentro), tucked behind medieval walls, has an incredible atmosphere.
Must-See Spots in Faro:
- Arco da Vila: A majestic 1812 gateway to the Old Town, where storks regularly build their massive nests right on top.
- Capela dos Ossos (Bone Chapel in Carmo Church): Absolute bizarre history. A small chapel behind the Nossa Senhora do Carmo church, its walls and pillars lined entirely with the bones and skulls of over 1,000 Carmelite monks. Above the entrance stands a chilling inscription: “Our bones that lie here await yours.” A perfect reminder of mortality when your legs are aching from a run.
📌 Yoast FAQ: Faro, Beaches, and Ria Formosa
Yes, the ideal period for running is from October to May, when temperatures are pleasant (15–22 °C / 59–72 °F) and the beaches are half-empty. In summer (July–August), the beaches are crowded and the sand gets scorching hot.
No, entry to most parts of the park and the wooden boardwalks is completely free. Only boat tours to the outer barrier islands (Ilha Deserta, Ilha da Armona) are paid.
The beach is only 3 km from the airport terminal. You can get there by bus (line 16), a quick taxi/Uber (€5–7), or even on foot, by bike, or running across the road bridge. I’ve tried all variants! 🙂
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