Located in the northern Czech Republic, within the Bohemian Switzerland National Park, lies a place that I consider a true sanctuary. It is called Na Tokání. For me, it’s a legend that must be earned with every litre of sweat shed on the steep tarmac of Rynartice. It’s where the history of the noble Kinský family blends with the scent of pine needles and woodsmoke. This isn’t just a point on a map; it’s a ritual.
Rynartice: Where Breath Ends and Plzeň Begins to Make Sense
My MTB trip starts in the village of Rynartice. If you possess “pub fitness” similar to mine, this climb will test you faster than any medical stress test. The road rises relentlessly. I stare at my front wheel, praying it stays on the ground.
“Why are you doing this to yourself?” I ask myself halfway up the hill, gasping for air. The only answer is the frantic drumming of my heart against my ribs.
But that feeling when I finally crest the horizon and the forest road towards Na Tokání opens up? It’s priceless. I offer a sarcastic word of thanks to my stomach for not giving up, and I zip up my jacket for the ride ahead.
Forest Serenity and the Local Social Contract
When the road finally yields to your will and you reach your destination, the silence hits you like a physical force. Na Tokání is a crossroads. There’s something for everyone here—from the hardcore mountain biker to the dedicated “beer-drinker.”
“Plzeň?”
“They tap Pilsner here.”
At Na Tokání, I turn off for a bit of socialization. One Plzeň and a conversation with the locals about the seasons in these mountains.
“In winter? Forget it,” says a local patriot sharing my table. “Snow up to your neck, ploughs come only exceptionally, and often you won’t get down for a week.” He pauses before adding: “But it’s always quiet and beautiful. Especially without the crowds.”
I decided to “call it a day” for a moment, put my feet up, and watched the burnt rocks. There is something mystical about how the fire almost miraculously spared the lodges in 2022, even as the flames licked their shutters. It was as if even the fire had a certain respect for the history of the Kinský dynasty.
Alpine Lodges in the Deep Woods: The Prince’s Taste
The name Na Tokání refers to the mating ritual (lekking) of the capercaillie, but these days you’re more likely to hear the heavy breathing of tired hikers. In the 19th century, Prince Rudolf Kinský built a complex of hunting lodges here in an alpine style. It’s a bizarre and beautiful sight—finding Tyrolean architecture in the middle of a wild Czech forest.
“The Prince certainly knew where to have his beer,” I mutter to myself while admiring the intricate wooden carvings.
These lodges are survivors. They burned down in 1905, were rebuilt in the 1920s, and faced the fury of fire again in 2020. This place has deep roots; it simply refuses to vanish.
Then and Now: A Glimpse of Mordor
I was fortunate (or perhaps unfortunate) enough to pass through here both before and after the great fire of 2022. The contrast is chilling. The road to Na Tokání now leads through sections that look like a scene from The Lord of the Rings. Grey, barkless trunks stand like ghost soldiers on guard.
“It looks like Mordor,” I think, looking at the charred slopes.
But then I see it. Beneath those dead remains, bright green grass and young birch trees are already pushing through. Nature doesn’t hold press conferences about “recovery”—it just grows. It’s raw, melancholic, but vibrantly alive.al about how the fire almost miraculously spared the lodges in 2022, even as the flames licked their shutters. It was as if even the fire had a certain respect for the Kinský dynasty.ut “recovery”—it just grows. It is raw, melancholic, but vibrantly alive.
🚲 MTB Zadní Jetřichovice
You can head towards Jetřichovice or try the more technical sections leading to the border. I chose Zadní Jetřichovice and a cycling loop following the Křinice River all the way to Kirnitzschtal. Here, you can even cross a small bridge to the other side and enter the German part of Saxon Switzerland.
The ride back along the Jetřichovický Stream had a completely different atmosphere. During the entire journey, I didn’t meet a single soul.
📌 Practical Tips: Na Tokání on Two Wheels
Officially, no. The entire area is in the core of the National Park. For mere mortals, the only way is self-propulsion—bike or boots. This is the magic of it; you won’t find the shopping-mall crowds here.
Let’s be blunt: it’s a challenge. The road is steep and will test your lungs. If you have an e-bike, you’ll be smiling. If you’re riding on “human power,” you’ll regret every single dumpling you had for lunch. But the reward is a cold Plzeň and a smooth ride once you’re over the top.
Most of the area damaged by the fires is being gradually restored. Restaurants and accommodation operate in a limited or seasonal mode. It is best to verify the current situation before your trip, but you can usually get a Kofola or a beer there.
