When cyclists talk about riding in Italy, the famous Sella Ronda automatically springs to mind. But if you are looking for something raw, with a more imposing backdrop and climbs that test your absolute limits, the answer is the Marmolada Loop via Passo Fedaia.
Rising to 3,343 meters, Marmolada—home to the only significant glacier in the Dolomites—is the undisputed queen of the region. Circling this massive limestone fortress on a road bike means tackling one of the most breathtaking, yet nfotoriously deceitful routes in Northern Italy.
🚴 Route Details and Profile:
- Route: Arabba ➔ Passo Pordoi (2,239 m) ➔ Canazei ➔ Passo Fedaia (2,057 m) ➔ Rocca Pietore ➔ Caprile ➔ Pieve di Livinallongo (Col di Lana) ➔ Arabba
- Distance: approx. 65–70 km
- Total Elevation Gain: approx. 2,100 m
- Key High Points: Passo Pordoi (2,239 m) & Passo Fedaia (2,057 m)
💡 Pro Tip: Ride Clockwise to Avoid a Cycling Nightmare!
Once you step into your pedals in Arabba, you have a choice. We strongly advise you to head towards Passo Pordoi first and ride clockwise.
Why? Because if you tackle this loop in reverse—climbing towards Passo Fedaia from Caprile and Rocca Pietore—you are stepping into pure cycling torture. From that direction, you face a relentless 12-kilometer wall with warning signs constantly displaying 15% gradients and above. There are no merciful switchbacks to catch your breath. No flats. Just a brutal, straight asphalt ramp carved into the mountain where the heat radiates off the road and the summit never seems to arrive.
Riding clockwise from Canazei makes the ascent of Passo Fedaia far more progressive, enjoyable, and manageable.
🏔️ Marmolada Loop & Fedaia via Passo Pordoi
1. Warm-up on Passo Pordoi (2,239 m)
Starting in Arabba, the road immediately tilts upward onto the iconic Passo Pordoi. The hairpin bends here feature a very pleasant, steady 7–8% gradient, allowing your legs to warm up smoothly. At the pass, you are greeted by sweeping mountain views and the memorial to cycling legend Fausto Coppi. What follows is a fast, flowy descent into Canazei in the Val di Fassa.
2. The Ascent to Passo Fedaia (2,057 m)
In Canazei, we turn left, and the main climb of the day begins. The road guides us alongside a stream toward the face of the Marmolada. The gradient gradually starts testing your legs, but the reward at the top is Lago di Fedaia—a breathtaking reservoir with strikingly turquoise water, sitting right beneath the Marmolada Glacier.
It’s the ideal spot for a well-deserved espresso, a slice of cake, and a photo with the highest peak in the Dolomites behind you.
3. Descent via Rocca Pietore & Return via Col di Lana
From Fedaia, a brutal, technical, and incredibly fast descent leads down to Rocca Pietore and Caprile. Here, you will feel firsthand (and on your burning brake rotors) what it would mean to grind up this hill from the opposite direction.
From Caprile, the road gently heads upward through Pieve di Livinallongo along the slopes of the tragically famous Col di Lana (the site of fierce World War I battles) back to Arabba. Your legs will be burning after two tough passes, but the feeling at the finish line is priceless.
Water Tip: We put an old French piece of advice to use: “Thirsty? Head to a cemetery.” In the EU, every cemetery is required to have free accessible drinking water. We found two along the way, but even that wasn’t quite enough. Hygiene aside, I ended up filling my bottle from a local fountain as well and coasted happily back into Arabba.
👑 Queen Marmolada
With its sheer 800-meter south face and northern glacier, Marmolada (3,343 m) is a true natural majesty. If you ever want to step off the road bike or take a breather, the area around Fedaia and Passo Pordoi is an eldorado for hiking and mountain biking.
A stunning ridge trail leads directly from Passo Pordoi toward the Marmolada Glacier, which can be done on foot or on a full-suspension mountain bike.
This time, we opted for hiking on our own two feet.
For the Lazy Ones:
🚠 Cable Car Arabba to Porta Vescovo
If you want to step off your bike for a moment and take in the entire wall of the Marmolada and its glacier in full view, there is a fantastic option right out of Arabba. A high-capacity cable car runs straight from the village center up to Arabba – Porta Vescovo.
- What Awaits at the Top (2,478 m a.s.l.): The top station sits directly on the ridge facing the Marmolada. It features a restaurant with a panoramic terrace offering hands-down the best photo spot of the Marmolada massif and Lago di Fedaia down in the valley.
- For Cyclists & Hikers: The cable car also transports bikes (MTB / e-bikes). From here, you can ride legendary singletracks (including the famous Viel del Pan) or simply take a walk along the ridge.
- Operations & Tickets: The lift operates during the summer season (typically from mid-June to late September) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM. Tickets can be purchased one-way or round-trip, or as part of the regional Dolomiti SuperSummer pass.
- Coffee Tip: Grab an espresso on the terrace at Porta Vescovo before you start grinding up Passo Pordoi and Fedaia. That view will get you in the right mindset immediately!
📝 Cyclist Summary
- Difficulty: 4/5 (Requires good fitness and compact gearing / a wider cassette).
- Refueling: Mountain hut at Lago di Fedaia and cafés on Passo Pordoi.
- Best Time to Ride: June (outside peak Italian holiday season) or September, when the roads are quieter.
