The picturesque town of Ponta do Sol on Madeira’s southwest coast is a magnet for digital nomads from around the globe. But it’s also home to one of the island’s most stunning levadas—Levada Nova.
Ponta do Sol is famous for its sunny days, a charming harbor, and breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. Thanks to its location on the leeward side of the island, the winds are mild, and the weather is warm, making it an ideal place for a seaside escape. Add in the warmest sea on Madeira, inexpensive bananas, pristine beaches, and 100 Mbps internet in almost every home (thanks to undersea communication cables between Europe and the U.S.), and it’s clear why digital nomads are flocking here. Why not work remotely from paradise?
Igreja da Lombada
The trail to Levada Nova starts at Igreja da Lombada, a small church that also serves as the starting point for another levada, Levada de Moinho. We opted for a loop hike, beginning with the lower trail and ascending to the upper one.
The beauty of hiking levadas lies in their relative ease. Built to channel water, the trails generally have minimal incline—except when navigating waterfalls—making every step an opportunity to soak in new vistas.
As usual, our trekking poles (lovingly referred to as “fujary”) came along for the journey. Honestly, Decathlon should issue me a loyalty card by now—my first stop after landing is usually there, as airlines don’t allow carry-on trekking poles, especially ones that cost €5.50.
Opposite the trailhead, you can spot remnants of tunnels from Levada de Coronel. They looked tempting to explore, but the promise of a cold beer at the end of the trek kept our ambitions in check.
Levada do Moinho
The 6 km stretch of Moinho trail goes by quickly. Below the trail, a narrow dirt road snakes through the valley, used by locals to drive down to the waterfalls. We only realized this at the picnic area, which was packed with cars, people, and the smells of sizzling sausages on outdoor grills.
Although we had only encountered a handful of people on the trail, the picnic zone was bustling. It was a weekend with perfect weather—families set up tents, kids ran around, and barbecue smoke filled the air. We decided to keep moving.
Ann’s Waterfall
The trail eventually led us under a middle-tier waterfall, where water spills over from Levada Nova. This shady spot was a welcome reprieve from the sun. Below, a small natural pool surrounded by fallen rocks served as an impromptu picnic area for hikers.
Some had clearly decided to stay here for the day. It’s easy to see why—it’s a serene and picturesque spot. Still, I couldn’t help but reflect on how people often miss the joy of what’s right in front of them in their constant pursuit of what they don’t have.
Happiness Can’t Be Rushed
This thought took me back to my first trip to the U.S. after the fall of the Iron Curtain. My friends and I spent a week in Los Angeles, and one day we rented a car to visit Sequoia National Park. It looked close on the map—just 580 miles away.
We left at 3 a.m. and reached the famous General Sherman Tree just after 1 p.m. Miloš, our designated driver, was so exhausted from driving endless orange groves that he opted to nap in the car instead of seeing the world’s largest tree.
We spent less than an hour in the park and saw almost nothing—not even Kings Canyon, which was just a short drive away. Sure, we could technically say we’d been there, but we didn’t experience it.
Two years later, we returned. This time, we planned properly—a weekend in a cabin with a barbecue and cold beer after a full day of hiking. Only then did we truly appreciate the magic of the place. Lesson learned: happiness can’t be rushed.
Madre da Levada do Moinho
The end of the ravine was a real challenge. The trail, overgrown with jungle-like vegetation and massive boulders, was more guessed than seen. The map marked three waterfalls along the way, and we pressed on, expecting some spectacular sights.
In the end, we found nothing—just a fence blocking the path, with no way to continue further. It was a bit of an anticlimax, to say the least.
On Lanzarote, locals often joke that water is more expensive than whiskey. 🙂 Since the island has no natural water sources, all water must be imported by boat. Madeira, on the other hand, has no such problems.
On the island’s northern side lies the Laurisilva rainforest of Fanal, which is almost perpetually blanketed in mist, fog, and clouds. Water flows down from the island’s peaks into nearly every ravine, creating a natural abundance.
We often wondered how much effort it must have taken to carve the levadas into the rugged cliffs. One thing is certain—Madeirans know how to value their water.
Levada Nova
After leaving the waterfall, the trail climbs toward Levada Nova. From above, the falls look like a simple water channel. You can’t see the waterfall itself—it’s directly below you. A few more bends and about a kilometer later, you’ll encounter one of Madeira’s natural masterpieces.
This part of the trail takes you under a massive waterfall. Behind the cascading water lies a rocky platform that leads to a long tunnel carved into the cliffside. The scene is jaw-dropping, and it’s no wonder hikers consider this one of the most beautiful spots on the island.
Once you emerge from the tunnel, the trail edges along a steep valley, offering panoramic views that will take your breath away. It’s both exhilarating and humbling, but it’s definitely not for the faint-hearted—or those with a fear of heights.
A Balancing Act
The narrow 30 cm ledge with a 300-meter drop below tests even the bravest hikers. After exiting the tunnel, my son Peter managed to keep his cool for a while—until I noticed him removing his shoes and stepping into the water.
“I just want to cool off,” he claimed, but I knew better. The ledge had gotten the better of him, and wading through the water channel seemed like a safer bet. He wasn’t the only one.
The Iconic Levadas of Madeira
Madeira’s levadas, or irrigation channels, are as iconic as the island’s dramatic cliffs and peaks. Among the most spectacular are:
- Levada do Caldeirão Verde: This trail winds through dense forests and rocky cliffs, leading to the stunning Caldeirão Verde waterfall, surrounded by the lush greenery of a canyon.
- Levada do Rabaçal (25 Fontes): Known for its numerous waterfalls and vibrant vegetation, it features the impressive Risco waterfall and breathtaking valleys.
- Levada do Furado: This route showcases incredible mountain scenery and ends at the picturesque Furado waterfall.
- Levada do Rei: Offering panoramic views of Madeira’s west coast, this trail provides a perfect blend of ocean vistas and mountainous landscapes.
With hundreds of levadas crisscrossing the island, there’s always a new one to explore. Each trail reveals a different side of Madeira, from lush laurel forests to dramatic sea cliffs.
Ponta do Sol: A Nomad’s Dream
This quaint village on Madeira’s sheltered southwest coast is perfect for long-term stays. Fast internet and excellent connectivity make it a haven for digital nomads, while the island’s trails and natural beauty offer a fantastic work-life balance.
However, to fully experience Madeira’s diverse landscapes—from the levadas to the jagged cliffs of the eastern coast and the peaks of Pico Ruivo and Pico Arieiro—you’ll need a car. The island’s well-connected highway network makes it easy to explore, though the north coast’s weather is noticeably harsher.
Whether you’re a nomad, a hiker, or simply a seeker of natural wonders, Madeira offers a wealth of experiences. Levada Nova & Ponta do Sol are just the beginning.
More hiking tips for Madeira Island
