The sea between Lanzarote and Graciosa is called El Río. Shallow, crystal-clear, it has spent millennia marking the boundary between two worlds. La Graciosa is just a stone’s throw from the port of Órzola, and most tourists head there. We chose a different path — the Balcon Gracioso hiking trail.
Although the ferry is quick, cheap, and comfortable, we were drawn in the opposite direction. Here’s our authentic experience and tip for a wild, lesser-known hiking trail on northern Lanzarote. We’ll show you why this minimalist trek, with the wind at your back, became the highlight of the day.
La Graciosa: an island that plays with time outside of time
La Graciosa has around 700 inhabitants, mostly living in the fishing village Caleta del Sebo. There are no roads, only sand. No cars — just a few licensed jeeps. And there is a quiet so profound it almost physically embraces you.
🏖The best beaches of La Graciosa (why it’s worth returning)
Even if you arrive with no plan, the island will give you one:
- Playa de las Conchas
A sandy marvel with views of Montaña Clara. Every step creaks like an old ship’s log. - Playa La Francesa
Turquoise water, calm, and sand that flows into the sea like melted gold. Perfect for swimming if the wind isn’t blowing. - Playa de la Cocina
A secluded cove beneath volcanic slopes. Said to be the quietest spot on the island — unless the local wind decides to roar at full throttle.
La Graciosa isn’t a resort. It isn’t even a “trip.” It’s a pause — the kind after which you start hearing your own thoughts again.
🌅Practical Tips: Ferry from Órzola to La Graciosa
Travel & Tickets
- Departure: Ferries operate exclusively from Órzola in northern Lanzarote, taking 20–25 minutes.
- Companies: Líneas Romero and Biosfera Express. Similar prices and comfort, around €20–22 round trip per adult.
- Online vs. On-site: Buy tickets online in advance, especially in peak season. Usually saves money and guarantees your spot.
- Schedules: Ferries run roughly every hour, or every half hour during morning peaks. Check the last return (around 17:00–18:00) to avoid being stranded.
Transport, Getting Around
- No cars: Only licensed taxis (jeeps) and locals’ vehicles allowed.
- To the beaches:
– On foot: Cheapest option, ~1.5 hours one way from Caleta del Sebo.
– Bicycle rental: Best for sandy paths (€10–15/day).
– Taxi: Licensed jeeps to beaches (~€10–15 per person one way).
Essentials
- Water & snacks: Only restaurants in Caleta del Sebo; bring supplies for beach trips.
- Cash: Most restaurants take cards, but some spots and taxis may require cash.
- Protection: Wind is relentless, sun strong. Sunscreen and headgear are a must.
Balcón Gracioso hiking trail from Órzola: Our True Highlight
We didn’t actually go to the island. Instead, we were drawn to the northern cliffs of Lanzarote, where the coastline breaks into the wild Balcon Gracioso hiking trail.
🏖Playa de la Cantería: where the Atlantic tests its vocal cords
From Órzola, slip on your hiking shoes, grab your trekking poles, and disappear from the tourist world faster than you can process some politician’s empty promises. Playa de la Cantería is the first stop — a long, rough beach. Not for swimming, but for feeling.
Here, the Atlantic shouts, it doesn’t whisper.
🦯Hiking trail above the cliffs
From the beach begins a subtle, sometimes nearly invisible trail. A ribbon of lava rock gradually transforms into a path sculpted by wind.
You climb, circumvent, balance — every step worth the view: Cantería below, Órzola behind, the volcanic massif ahead, ending at the base of the famous Mirador del Río viewpoint.
Balcon Gracioso is like the little sibling of the viewpoint — wilder, less known, but all the more authentic.
🥾Long-distance vibes
The older I get, the more I enjoy minimalist trekking: unmarked trails, my own pace, wind at my back.
And for a little commercial twist — I again ended up with cheap trekking poles from Decathlon. The whistle ones, €5.50. After a week, I leave them on the island, feeling like I contributed to the local ecosystem.
The trail from Órzola to Balcón Gracioso was the highlight of my day. The kind of experience you don’t photograph for likes but for memory.
And how did it end? Like all good stories in Lanzarote — in the waves of the Atlantic, where every drop glistens like a medal and the saltwater squeezes every blister on your feet.
What’s your most memorable hiking experience in the Canary Islands? Share your personal tip in the comments!
