Cycling Czech Canada via Kunžak and Havlova Hora to Landštejn Castle was supposed to be a surprise. No meticulous planning—just an online map, a solid gravel bike, and a cyclist’s raw instinct.
However, immediately after leaving the village of Blato, I had to make an impromptu detour. Klenovské samoty (The Klenová Solitudes)—that name alone sounded highly motivating.
Cycling Czech Canada
In this region, ponds constantly alternate with deep pine forests, giving you the distinct feeling that whichever logging track you choose, you will eventually hit something. That part is true. But make no mistake: you will never hit a flat section in Czech Canada. 🙂
After two brutal, steep descents followed by immediate, soul-crushing climbs, I decided to pull back from the forestry tracks and return to the paved road leading to Kunžak. And even that was only to discover that I was completely elsewhere compared to where I thought I was.
🏙️ Kunžak: A Strategic Cyclist Trap and a Church with a Secret
In Kunžak, one quickly realizes that this town is not just a random dot on the map. Besides being a place where you are practically guaranteed to lose your bearings, Kunžak boasts two fantastic highlights.
The first is the local Church of St. Bartholomew. If you look up at its tower, you will notice it resembles a poorly assembled Lego set—the bottom section is Gothic, the middle is Renaissance, and the top is Baroque. The historical builders simply slapped styles together based on whatever budget they had at the time.
The second—and far more crucial piece of news for a cyclist’s survival—is the local microbrewery. If you hit a physical wall or just a massive moral crisis, Kunžak will save you with its own craft beer (they brew the local Kunžacký klinec or Čáp here). Sitting down in the town square and washing down the forest dust with a cold, local pint is practically a mandatory ritual before tackling the next climb.
Leaving Kunžak, the side road toward Terezín, Radíkov, and Český Rudolec completely blew me away. Discovering a pristine, mature roadside tree avenue like this nowadays feels like a minor miracle.
⚠️ Safety Tip: If you don’t want cars constantly honking at your back, make sure to turn off correctly onto the parallel side road. It is marked on the map as the “Napříč Českou Kanadou” (Across Czech Canada) cycling highway.
🏊 Lake Zvůle: The “Altitude Kilometer” Lesson
The small turn-off from the side road did not bode well. It was a descent straight into hell. And as every seasoned cyclist knows, every meter you freely drop will eventually have to be climbed right back up.
Who could have known that this path led into a hidden recreational area centered around a stunning pond? At least I managed to jump in for a swim and grabbed a stellar cold beer at the local campsite. I am genuinely glad that these retro lakeside resorts survived and remain highly sought after by travelers. Campsites possess a completely different atmosphere and definitely a better breed of people than all-inclusive hotels.
After the swim came the grind. Every single altimeter meter I had just enjoyed coasting down had to be aggressively reclaimed.
Romantic Dreams vs. Vertical Reality
It instantly reminded me of a time when I was grinding up a massive climb with my buddy Ignác through Hodruša Hámre toward Banská Štiavnica. Down at the bottom of the valley, we had encountered a lovely young couple riding heavy touring bikes—loaded with tents, sleeping mats, cooking gear, the whole package. The girl was incredibly sweet, smiling radiantly, and we overheard her romantic sigh: “How beautiful, this is going to be pure magic…” Ignác and I took a quick dip in the local lake and, as fate would have it, we ended up overtaking them again about 400 vertical meters higher up the mountain. This time around, we overheard a completely different vocabulary vocabulary from the young lady—words that are highly unsuitable for publishing, revolving around ideas like “idiotic, stupid idea,” and “pure irresponsibility.”
As we passed them, she asked in a borderline hysterical voice if the top was still far away. Trying to comfort her as I pedaled past, I called out: “Just one more kilometer!” To which Ignác, without missing a beat, added a single word: “Vertical.” The girl immediately dismounted her bike, muttered: “I’m completely done with this shit,” and threw her bicycle headfirst into the tall grass. I have no idea how their honeymoon turned out, but the moral of the story is clear: never lie to a fellow cyclist. 🙂
🗼 Havlova Hora Observation Tower
The wooden observation tower on Havlova Hora (680 m above sea level) is completely modern, built on the site of a former historical triangulation point. After climbing 180 stairs to the viewing platform at a height of 33.7 meters, the entirety of Czech Canada opens up before you. On a clear day, you can spot the town of Dačice, the Kremešník tower, or even the Austrian Schneeberg mountain.
🍑 Ďáblova Prdel (The Devil’s Arse)
A geological backside you simply must photo.
Just a short distance from the Valtínov Mill, you will stumble upon a location that redefines the word “curious.” Ďáblova prdel (The Devil’s Arse). This is, hands down, the most famous, photographed, and bizarre natural granite boulder in Central Europe. If you leave Czech Canada without a photo of yourself standing underneath this massive stone backside, you haven’t truly been here.
Many people assume it’s the work of some medieval prankster with a chisel, but the truth is purely natural. It is the result of millions of years of distinct spheroidal weathering of granite. Water, frost, wind, and erosion peeled away the outer layers of the rock until nature sculpted a perfect anatomy that would make a fitness coach jealous.
A well-marked educational trail leads here from the Valtínov Mill, but if you are bringing your bike, prepare for a bit of rugged cyclocross over exposed tree roots.
🏰 Český Rudolec: The “Little Hluboká” Chateau
The road continuing from Kunžak across Terezín and Radíkov leads to a landmark that hits your eyes instantly: Český Rudolec. The local chateau, built in the Tudor Neo-Gothic style with a romantic tower, looks like it was cut straight out of the English countryside, earning it the nickname “Little Hluboká.” It has a wild history, having served as a grain silo and a socialist collective farm (JZD) dormitory. While local enthusiasts are currently working hard to resurrect it, its slightly eerie patina of faded glory is utterly captivating.
For a exhausted cyclist, however, the primary oasis is the Zámecký pivovar Grasel (Chateau Brewery) located right within the estate. If you are running on empty, their authentic house lager will wash away the gravel dust and fatigue far more effectively than any modern energy drink.
🔗 Want to know the full story of this place? If you are fascinated by the mysterious history of this chateau, the details of its devastation, and its ongoing recovery, check out our standalone feature article: Český Rudolec Chateau: The Story of the Bohemian Little Hluboká.
🐐 The Peníkov Goat Farm & The Return to Blato
The push from Český Rudolec to Staré Město pod Landštejnom is a genuine grind. Not only do you already have over 50 kilometers in your legs, but you’ve also enjoyed a flat surface for a grand total of maybe 10 minutes across the entire route.
I was single-handedly saved by Peníkov. Today, it is a beautifully maintained goat farm; back when I first rode through, it was just an abandoned old sawmill and a derelict brewery. It was a raw industrial ruin that any urban exploration photographer would gladly risk their life to shoot.
The lady at the farm willingly sold me fresh goat cheese, and I chugged down half a liter of fresh goat milk on the spot, which absolutely saved me from a total physical crash on the upcoming hill.
From that point on, the route was all about guaranteed social rewards. First, a fresh tap of Platan beer in Staré Město pod Landštejnom, followed by a climb to the massive ruins of Landštejn Castle, and finally, a heroic return journey back to our base in Blato.
This cycling route across Kunžak, Zvůle, and Havlova Hora to Landštejn easily ranks among the most spectacular and rewarding loops Czech Canada has to offer.
🗺️ Cycling Czech Canada Tracks & GPX Inspiration around Kunžak:
- Loop 1: Kunžak, Kaproun, Vitineves, Potočná. (69 km / 819 m elevation gain)
- Loop 2: Along the Former Border Wires to Landštejn. (71 km / 805 m elevation gain)
- Loop 3 (This Featured Route): Klenová, Kunžak, Zvůle, Jakubova Vyhlídka, Rudolec, Staré Město. (56 km / 812 m elevation gain)
