If you want to experience more than just sunbathing on Cyprus, head for the mountains and inland villages. The moment you turn away from the coast, you step into a completely different world—one of authentic Cyprus, where life moves slowly, the air is fresh, and the roads are so empty you start wondering if you’ve entered a forgotten part of the island.
Welcome to Troodos, the highest mountain range in Cyprus, where hiking takes you to the very top of the island.
Sleepy Villages & Fresh Orange Juice
Peace. Absolute peace. No one’s rushing. No one’s hassling you. No one’s trying to sell you something.
I stop in a tiny village somewhere in the foothills. A small café offers fresh orange juice for next to nothing. It’s so cheap that I decide this will be my main source of hydration for the trip.
The old lady behind the counter looks at me, confused by my request.
“Oh. Oranges,” she finally understands, disappears into her garden, and comes back with four freshly picked ones. She squeezes them in an old juicer, hands me a glass, and goes back to shelling beans.
She doesn’t care if I stay or go. I might be her only customer today. When I hand her a coin, she smiles vaguely and continues shelling. No rush, no stress, no touristy nonsense.
A Lesson in Cypriot Dining
If you want to eat well in Cyprus, get away from tourist zones.
Find a family-run taverna—never the ones recommended in hotels. And whatever you do:
Don’t ask for the menu.
Instead, ask: “What’s cooking today?”
Most likely, they’ll have one dish only—and it will be the best thing you’ve eaten on the island. They don’t cook for tourists. They cook for themselves. Fresh, local, and made with care.
The Climb to Troodos
The highest mountains of Cyprus, almost 2,000 meters above sea level.
My old Ford Fiesta groans as we climb. There are multiple routes to the top, but the rule is simple:
The shorter the road, the steeper the climb.
Tight switchbacks twist their way up the slopes: Agios, Pano Platres, Kato Platres… The road signs are barely readable in their Greek-but-not-quite-Greek script. But logic helps—just keep going up.
Where we’re going, there’s no higher to go.
Atalanti & Artemis Trails
Two incredible hiking trails at the top of Cyprus, winding through ancient forests of twisted junipers and black pines. Some trees here are over 800 years old.
The trails offer stunning views over Limassol, Paphos, and Nicosia. Somewhere along the way, you’ll stumble upon old mineshafts—remnants of ancient chromium mines.
And one thing’s for sure:
It. Is. Cold.
Down by the beach, people are sunbathing. Up here? They’re skiing.
Hiking Troodos in the off-season is a surreal experience. You’re not just standing on the highest peak of the island; you’re stepping into yourself.
The ancient forest clears your mind. Thoughts float in and out. You either let them go or hold onto them for a moment.
Your head clears. There’s nowhere to be, nothing to prove. Just you, the mountain, and the sky. Until a screaming child brings you back to reality. Some things are the same on every hiking trail in the world.
“I’m not going any further!” the kid yells.
I casually tell him that the dried-up juniper trees have brittle branches because, at night, they hang noisy kids from them. He looks at his dad. Dad grins.
They ignore me. But hey—it worked. The kid shuts up. I take a break, let them move ahead, and enjoy the silence again.
Troodos: on the Roof of Cyprus
Hiking Through Time
The trails of Troodos let you walk at 2,000 meters above sea level—over what used to be the ocean floor.
92 million years ago, these mountains were part of the ancient Tethys Sea, stretching from Mexico through Spain, Italy, the Himalayas, all the way to Malaysia.
You’re literally hiking on pieces of Earth’s mantle—a luxury only a few places on Earth can offer.
Troodos Square & Trail Tips
🚫 No campfires—strictly forbidden.
🌿 Best hiking season: March–November.
🥾 Atalanti Trail: 14 km, altitude 1,820–1,720 m, doable on foot or by mountain bike.
⏳ Time needed: 5+ hours at a relaxed pace.
📍 Start: Troodos Square.
And a bonus tip: If you’re hiking in summer, use the free parking lot below the square—it’ll save you 30 minutes of parking frustration.
Final Thought
Troodos isn’t just hiking. It’s a reset button for your soul. And that alone makes it worth the climb.
