After climbing the Grand Cratere on Vulcano Island, where we bathed not only in the sea but also in healing mud baths, we spent the night on our boat, rocked by the gentle waves of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The morning sun greeted us with the promise of more sailing. After the smoking Vulcano, we set off further – more jewels of the archipelago awaited us: Salina, Lipari and Panarea.
Lipari Island: Heart of the Archipelago
We just sailed around the island of Lipari and on the way back we spent a nice evening and night here. The largest and most populated of the Aeolian islands, it is the busiest, characerised by tugboats, urban bustle and a large harbour. The town of Lipari itself charms with its mix of history and lively atmosphere. Don’t miss strolling among the narrow streets of the old town, its colourful houses, markets and shops with local specialities.
It’s definitely worth stopping at the archaeological museum to learn about the island’s rich history dating back to the Neolithic period. They promise a big surprise there – a collection of ancient theater masks, one of the largest in Europe. We rudely prioritized beer, coffee, and ice cream instead. Lipari and Panarea are completely different islands.
At the port, we watched fishermen returning with their daily catch. We postponed tasting the seafood, too. If you get here, don’t miss the local specialty – sweet almond cookies that perfectly complement espresso.
Salina: Wine Gem and Underwater Surprise
In the afternoon, we sailed by Salina – the second largest of the Aeolian Islands, but with a completely different character than Lipari. While the main town bustles with activity and Panarea with luxury, Salina feels like a slow-motion shot: peaceful, green, infused with the scent of capers and silence.
The island is formed by two extinct volcanoes that look like twins – Fossa delle Felci and Monte dei Porri. The ancient Greeks called it Didyme – “twin”. Under their green slopes, vineyards stretch, producing the rare Malvasia grape – a delicately sweet wine that we, naturally, had to taste.
We lingered by the coast for a while. Swimming in the crystal-clear water unexpectedly turned into a diving adventure when we discovered a sunken 200-horsepower Yamaha boat engine a few meters deep. Well-preserved and seemingly functional. Pulling it out took us an hour, and we spent another two hours concocting conspiracies about how it got there.
Salina was like an exhale – a place where you don’t push anything, you just are. Like when the world stops rushing.
And then came Panarea – a completely different world.
Panarea: The Island You (Don’t) Return To
After quiet Salina came Panarea – the smallest, oldest, and supposedly most stylish of the islands. Although it’s only 3.4 km² in size, Panarea is known as a holiday spot for celebrities and luxury lovers. An island without cars, full of white houses, flower walls, and terraces overlooking the sea. You have to admire the traditional Aeolian architecture. Everything here looks as if it was designed by someone with an Instagram sense for detail. Even the trash is photogenic here.
Our anchoring went like an advertisement – a drink in a beach bar, sunset with the silhouette of Stromboli in the distance, and a small trip on foot to Cala Junco bay. Quiet water, red cliffs, a few fishermen, and a strange feeling that somewhere under our feet are traces of 3000-year-old settlements. We didn’t play archaeologists, just soaked in the atmosphere.
Panarea has something special – it’s a mix of forgotten Greece, Italian countryside, and charm that attracts artists, filmmakers, and influencers with sponsored towels. They say even Prada comes here. Maybe that’s why the price of 1470 euros for two nights appeared on Booking.com for Hotel Quartara. From that moment, we stopped imagining Panarea as a romantic return and rather classified it as “unwanted loves you fondly remember but don’t call back”.
Salina, Lipari and Panarea. Sicilian sea experience. Still… if I ever come back, I’ll come on a yacht. Like we did now. With wine, a camera, and mild envy towards those who can afford it for a whole week.
Lipari Islands
- Vulcano and Grand Cratere
- Lipari, Salina a Panarea (this story)
- Stromboli
