When people hear “Sofia,” most picture churches, trams, maybe a touch of Balkan chaos. But few know that this city also breathes. A green breath, fresh and fragrant — with flowers, grass, and, sometimes, the nostalgic scent of roasted corn. And the best way to feel that breath? Hop on a bike and go looking for it. Sofia by bike. It’s like a quest for urban zen. And let’s be honest — also for good food.
Boris’ Green Odyssey
We start in Boris Garden — 300 hectares of history, shade, and ancient trees that remember the days when horses outnumbered bicycles. The park was founded in 1884 and still stands as a quiet protest against the stress of urban life.
“If trees could talk, this park would be a novel,” Johnny mutters as we pass a pond glowing in the morning light. We weave between oaks, lindens, joggers, and pensioners feeding ducks and solving politics one breadcrumb at a time.
We ride all the way to Bratska Mogila, a war memorial in the heart of the park. The 41-meter-tall obelisk commemorates Bulgaria’s partisan movement and the victims of the September Uprising. The eternal flames no longer burn, but the monument still speaks.
Loven Park and South Park
South doesn’t burn here — it soothes. From Borisova, we roll past the ruins of an old Baba Yaga shack and into the wild forest trails of Loven Park, before emerging into the endless green of South Park. If Sofia has lungs, this is its heart. A place where children’s laughter, the aroma of espresso, and the quiet rhythm of bike tires create a living soundtrack.
Marked bike lanes curve through blooming meadows and shaded alleys. “Looks like a commercial for city life,” Johnny quips, slowing down — not that he’d admit he’s enjoying it.
Sofia on Two Wheels
In recent years, Sofia has invested heavily in cycling infrastructure. Over 60 kilometers of bike lanes now connect the city’s parks with its center. No extreme adrenaline, just smooth pedaling in sync with the city’s green pulse.
As we approach downtown, paths narrow and traffic thickens, but the city keeps its charm. We pass the iconic Alexander Nevsky Cathedral — its golden domes glinting like honey-colored buttons on Sofia’s urban jacket. A few tricky intersections test our nerves, but nothing a mildly hangry cyclist in search of tarator can’t handle.
On the way to the center, we discover more and more graffiti.
Tarator as a Reward
Sofia by Bike. After a few hours, hunger kicks in. We stop at a small eatery with plastic chairs and a kitchen that smells like home.
Tarator — a cold soup made with yogurt, cucumber, and dill — cools us down and hits the reset button. We pair it with a Shopska salad and a cold beer. Maybe two. Or three. Rakia? Not before riding — though Johnny’s giving it the eye.
A City with Lungs (and a Heart)
The day winds down. We circle back to where it all began — tired, but smiling in a way no urban smog can erase. Green Sofia. Bulgaria’s capital may lack a sea, but today it showed us a different face. Not just the historical or the concrete one — but the quiet, leafy, and kind one.
And the best part? That face isn’t hidden. You just have to look for it differently.
Preferably — from the saddle of a bike. Want to see something different? Try Sofia by bike.
