Start the Day Right in Polis. Before heading to the Smigies Trail, make a quick stop at the beach in Polis. There’s a fantastic campground with a stunning beach, perfect for a morning swim. Once refreshed, drive up to the mountain village of Neo Chorio, lace up your hiking shoes, and set off on an unforgettable trek along the Akamas ridge.
The Akamas Peninsula Trails
The Smigies, Adonis, and Aphrodite trails—three incredible routes that will test your legs and steal your heart. At the parking area, I found the perfect picnic spot—a beer, three oranges, and a flatbread. Bonus: the intoxicating scent of cypress trees, which is especially appreciated when you’re on day three of wearing the same sweaty hiking shirt.
Smigies Trail
A Walk Above the Sea. The Smigies Trail climbs up to the Akamas ridge, offering breathtaking panoramic views of Polis Chrysochous Bay, Latsi, Pachyammos, and the Paphos Forest to the east, as well as Lara Bay and Karavopetres to the west. This six-kilometer loop passes by abandoned magnesium mines and old kilns, eventually leading into the Akamian forest. At one point, it connects with the Adonis Trail, which takes you all the way to Aphrodite Bath.
No, Cyprus is not just about beaches and ancient ruins. There are places here where few people venture, places where the wind carries the dust of old stories, and where the footsteps of lone hikers disappear into the whispering pine needles.
Smigies Trail is one of those places. After a short picnic above Neo Chorio, the trail opened up into rolling hills. Pine trees formed a natural canopy, creating a peaceful, shaded path. Occasionally, the buzzing of cicadas or a salty sea breeze would break the silence. The scent of resin and adventure filled the air.
Then, suddenly—a viewpoint. The Akamas coastline unfolded like a giant map—to one side, Lara Bay, where turtles hatch on the golden sand; to the other, Chrysochous Bay, stretching all the way to Turkey. I took a sip of water, sat on a rock, and watched the sea shift colors as clouds drifted across the sun.
The Abandoned Magnesium Mines
Then I spotted a narrow, overgrown path leading away from the main trail. It was steep and wild, but something about it called to me. So, naturally, I followed it.
After a few minutes, I noticed a different smell—iron, minerals, something raw and metallic. And then, there they were—the abandoned magnesium mines.
They had been standing here for decades, maybe longer. Low stone kilns, once used to process magnesite, a mineral rich in magnesium. I ran my hands over the rough stone walls, still warm from the sun, as if they still held echoes of the past.
Who worked here? What happened to them? The town gave them jobs, the sea gave them a view, but did life give them happiness?
I pulled a pomegranate from my backpack—one I had bought the day before. I smashed it open on a rock and watched dark red juice spill across the stone surface.
A Lonely Trail, A Goat’s Company
On the way back, my only companions were the wind and, as always, the goats. Maybe that’s what will stick in my memory the most—not just because they were everywhere, but because, for a moment, I lost myself in their world.
But speaking of Cyprus… have you heard the legend of Stavros?
The Legend of Stavros
A Masterclass in Car Lockouts.
Renting a Car in Cyprus: A Lesson in Patience
Renting a car in Cyprus is an adventure in itself. Everything is backwards—the steering wheel, the roads, the signs—absolute chaos. Pro tip: pay extra for full coverage because trust me, you’ll need it.
Here’s how I accidentally befriended Stavros, the local car-lockout expert.
Step 1: My First Encounter with Stavros
The day started perfectly—a morning swim in Polis, a sea breeze, and an ice-cold beer. Then, just as I shut the trunk, it hit me—the keys were inside. And so were my phone, wallet, and all my documents.
“Great. Just great.”
No problem, I thought. I’d call for help. Oh wait… my phone was inside the car.
I managed to get hold of Europcar’s “emergency service”, and they kindly offered to send someone for a mere €250. Fantastic! Just a small problem—I had no phone or money to pay for it.
So I did what any rational person would do—I walked to the campground bar, ordered another beer, and complained to the bartender.
That’s when he grinned and said: “Call Stavros.”
“Stavros Do It.”
Thirty minutes later, Stavros arrived. A man with a leather bag full of tools. In seconds, he inflated a small airbag, slid in a wire, and popped the lock open with surgical precision.
I stood there, stunned. “Uh… how much?”
“Thirty euros.”
I paid, thanked him, and continued my journey.
Step 2: Hello Again, Stavros!
After hiking Smigies Trail, I drove down to Aphrodite Bath, changed into my swim trunks, shut the trunk, and…
The key was inside. Again.
“Oh Stavros, my golden Stavros.”
This time, he arrived laughing. “Twenty euros, my friend. You’re my best customer.”
Step 3: The Ultimate Fail
Fast forward another day—16km of hiking, an amazing swim, feeling invincible. But as I changed out of my swim trunks, I heard the familiar sound of the trunk closing.
Oh no.
Yes. I locked the keys inside for the third time.
This time, the bartender didn’t even ask. He just called Stavros automatically.
By the time Stavros arrived, half the town had gathered to watch the show.
“Third time, huh?” he chuckled.
I handed him another twenty euros, we drank a beer, and laughed it off. Stavros had officially become my best Cypriot friend.
Polis: A Laid-Back Paradise
Polis is the perfect escape from the crowded resorts. It’s a town of small taverns, olive markets, pomegranate orchards, and an amazing campground right on the beach. Once home to the ancient Greek city of Marion, today it’s a haven for travelers seeking peace and nature.
If you’re looking for adventure, stunning views, and a bit of adrenaline (especially if you have a habit of locking yourself out of your car), Akamas, Aphrodite Bath, and Smigies Trail are waiting for you.
