Two days before the 30th anniversary edition of the Prague 100 ultratrail, I found myself reading my notes from the 2017 and 2022 events. In one of those reflections, I’d sworn I’d never return. So, why on earth did I sign up for another round? Because it’s the 30th edition? Because the route heads north to the Kokořínsko region, which I’ve always wanted to explore? Or was it sheer curiosity about the latest “Olaf specials” (the race director’s signature course surprises)? Likely a mix of all three—plus my insatiable love for masochistic challenges. Shaking my head, I bought a train ticket for Friday.
Arrival in Prague
I arrived in Prague at 8 p.m., leaving me plenty of time for dinner at the world’s most famous fried chicken joint. Wandering through the snow-covered city, I eventually found my way to the school serving as race HQ, where the registration took place. Familiar faces greeted me, and as we chatted, someone remarked that the snowy terrain would likely have us slipping and falling even before reaching Stromovka park.
The start was delayed by 30 minutes due to train and bus delays, so there was ample time for final preparations. At 11 p.m., however, Olaf unceremoniously ushered us outside. The actual start line was about a kilometer from the school in a picturesque park. Watching 300 underdressed lunatics wandering the snowy streets at this hour must have been quite the sight for local residents.
Midnight Start: Let It Snow
And then, we were off. It was still snowing steadily, and the course began with not one but two ascents of Petřín Hill. On the second climb, we had to make our way up the tower itself. Packed tightly on the narrow spiral staircase, we moved like soldiers marching in single file. The live checkpoint at the top was lightning-quick, and the volunteers were impressively efficient.
Descending was a little trickier, as the snow-covered stairs were slippery. But I managed to stay on my feet. The route then led us through Prague’s iconic streets—Letná Plain, Stromovka, the island, the bridge—all my favorite running spots in the city, now blanketed in snow and completely free of asphalt. Before I knew it, we were running past the zoo and toward the Vltava River. The trails became wilder here, winding through tiny ravines, and the whole field seemed to revel in the challenge.
Into the Wilderness
At the 22-kilometer aid station, set up under a canvas tent by the Vltava, I was surprised to find hot soup available so early. I opted instead for tea and water to mix my electrolyte drink and quickly moved on. The next section promised some flat terrain, which, as someone used to running the levees of Petržalka, I was actually looking forward to.
But as I climbed up from the Vltava and turned north, my optimism vanished. A fierce headwind whipped icy needles of snow directly into my face, forcing me to constantly check my GPS for the right path. Despite the seemingly straight route, visibility was so poor that even reflective markers were hard to spot.
I donned my jacket and discovered that my waist pack was pressing uncomfortably against my stomach. Improvising, I stashed it in my running vest, along with my bottles, which now lacked insulation. With aid stations spaced 18 to 22 kilometers apart, I knew the freezing temperatures would be a challenge.
A Tough Grind
The lone bright spot of this stretch was the checkpoint at Kojetice (37 km), located in a cozy clubhouse by a football field. Several runners were already thawing out inside. I joined them briefly for hot tea and soup before pressing on. The relentless wind, biting cold, and swirling snowflakes combined with the narrow beam of my headlamp to create a surreal, almost dreamlike atmosphere.
At the 51-kilometer aid station, I paused just long enough to refuel. By then, we’d entered the Pšovka Valley, and the course became infinitely more interesting. Narrow trails wove between towering sandstone cliffs that looked eerie under the glow of headlamps. It was stunning, and the wind had mercifully died down.
Beer at Dawn
The next checkpoint at Hospodě u báby Šubrový (68 km) was warm and welcoming, with draft beer on tap. I happily used my drink token for a small beer, feeling like I’d reached paradise. That bliss faded quickly once I stepped back outside, shivering uncontrollably. It took 20 minutes of running to regain my rhythm and warmth.
A “quirky” checkpoint soon snapped me out of my lethargy. Positioned atop a rock, it required climbing a ladder bolted to its side. Nobody around me could believe it was the right path, but the GPS confirmed it. Scrambling up and sliding down on my backside added to the adventure, as did the many scenic detours that followed.
The highlight of this section was ascending to Kokořín Castle, followed by an endless series of viewpoints and rock formations. Leaving Kokořínský důl, the trail became increasingly obstructed by fallen trees. I joked to myself that Olaf must have been chopping them down as he marked the course.
Into the Labyrinth
At the checkpoint in Camp 86, another pub, I decided on a longer break. Stripping down to my base layer, I ordered a large beer, ate soup and bread, and added an extra jacket to my layers. By now, my only goal was to finish. With transportation sparse in the area, running seemed the easiest way to get back.
The following section, a maze of sandstone cliffs, was the one I’d dreaded most beforehand but ended up enjoying the most. Scrambling over rocks and squeezing through narrow crevices made for a thrilling experience. However, the growing number of fallen trees slowed progress, and crawling under or over them became increasingly exhausting.
The Final Push
The last major climb to Ronov was brutal, with steep, snowy slopes and barely any footing. Reaching the summit felt like a victory in itself. The descent, for once, was relatively gentle, and the final kilometers to the finish brought a mix of emotions—relief, pride, and exhaustion.
As I approached the finish line, a thorny branch snagged my hat and headlamp, tearing my jacket in the process. It seemed fitting—no one should finish the Prague 100 looking too pristine! I crossed the Prague Ultratrail in 22:15, claiming 19th place overall. Given how much time I’d spent dawdling at checkpoints and tiptoeing through tricky sections, this result exceeded all expectations.
Prague Ultratrail
The Prague 100 is a masterfully organized running event, blending Olaf’s unique flair for challenging routes with top-notch logistics. The mix of urban beauty, rugged trails, and epic camaraderie makes it an unforgettable experience.
A huge thank-you to Olaf and his team for their tireless efforts, and to Slovak Ultra Trail for the opportunity to take part. Though I still can’t decide if I owe them gratitude—or a beer shower!
