North Macedonia surprised me with both beauty and chaos. From misty mountains to a horror-style accommodation in Skopje – a day full of contrast, sweat, and Balkan irony.
Morning Dew and Mountain Silence
I woke up in the small tourist town of Demir Kapia, surrounded by mountains where the morning dew feels almost alive. Everything was wet, my tent included. Drying took time, but my mood stayed bright.
The first half of the route was a real gift. Although EuroVelo 11 here isn’t a proper bike path but merely a “directional suggestion”, the small service roads were calm and pleasant. And the scenery? So breathtaking even the wind paused for a moment just to admire it.
Veles: The Raw Taste of the Balkans
Lunch stop: Veles. And with it came a dose of Balkan reality — poverty, cracked buildings, trash, and chaos. What I expected in Turkey or Georgia, I found here instead. It’s harsh, but honest. The Balkans doesn’t pretend to be something it’s not. You either accept it or you get swallowed by it.
Arrival in Skopje and the Night Drama
After 115 kilometers, I reached Skopje. Quick booking, vegetarian pizza (since the menu options were basically “meat” or “meat”), and a chat with a friendly local who proudly announced, “Your president is here!” He also insisted I visit Matka Canyon tomorrow.
Then came the horror episode. After an hour of searching, I finally reached my accommodation — a place that looked like the communist era had checked in and never left. Shared bathroom, moldy walls, unbearable smell, dirty sheets, everything falling apart.
My comfort threshold is high, but not that high. Cold pizza didn’t help. Immediate evacuation! I ended up in a hostel. Not exactly a Hilton, but it’ll do. A bed and silence — luxury enough for tonight.
Next Mission: Heading to Kosovo
Tomorrow’s goal: Pristina. Almost 100 kilometers, mostly uphill.
Wish me luck — and for once, may the wind blow with me, not against me!
Hidden Facts: Macedonia
💧 The Listening Wells – Locals believe certain wells “remember” people. If you once drank from them with humility, the water will taste exactly the same when you return years later.
⛪ The Mirrors of Veles – Above the city lie ruins of an old monastery. At night, flickering lights appear in its windows — said to be the reflections of prayers from the past.
🚴 The Tunnels of Courage, Part II – Some tunnels between Demir Kapia and Skopje are unlit. Legend says that anyone who rides through them alone earns the “Balkan badge of bravery.” Those who make it without a flat tire get a blessing too.
🍷 Wine as a Map – Every valley has its own wine. Locals claim you can tell where you are by the taste. If it’s dry, you’re in the mountains. Sweet means the south. And if it gives you a headache — welcome to Skopje.
