If you want to clean your teeth, all you need is a toothbrush and some Meridol. But if you want to clear your head, climb a mountain. Up there, your thoughts shift, time slows down, and the noise of the world fades. No notifications. No “can you just quickly…”. Just you, silence, and the wind. Maybe a wild goat or two. But that’s part of the experience. Today’s mission: a bit of culture, a touch of spirituality – Lluc Monastery and the Pas des Grau trail.
Zero Mile Marker
We park just below the monastery in Lluc. Yes, that Lluc – the place where the zero-mile marker of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela begins. One of those moments where you tell yourself, “Alright, I’ve got legs, I’ve got willpower… now just 1,621 km to go.”
But today, we’re aiming for something more digestible – the ascent to Pas des Grau. A little taste of eternity.
The monastery itself is worth a visit – Mallorca’s most important pilgrimage site, home of the legendary Black Madonna, humble monks, a heavenly boys’ choir, and outrageously overpriced souvenirs. History hangs in the air like thick incense.
But we didn’t come to pray. We came to hike.
Lluc Trail & GR222
From Lluc, we hop onto the beautifully maintained GR222 trail. Not the iconic GR221 – that Mallorcan backbone – but her younger, tougher sister. Right at the start of the route we admired the great picnic and camping spots along the route.
Our route climbs up to Pas des Grau (also known as Bretxa Vella, for hikers), an ancient rocky gap in the ridge below Puig de Massanella.
Estimated hike time? 4 hours and 21 minutes. Honestly, if we finish on schedule, we’ve probably done something wrong.
The Climb
We start briskly, passing forest, sheep, and tourists in sneakers wearing the expression, “We’ve got GPS, what could go wrong?” The trail is clearly marked, and the path is as unforgiving as a recession-era economy.
After two hours, we reach the ruins of the old shepherd’s hut, Cassa de Galilea. Sounds romantic, but it mostly reminds you that everything eventually crumbles – houses, egos, you name it.
The final stretch to Pas des Grau is nature’s way of spitting rocks in your face – a narrow path with loose gravel and exposed ledges that are best tackled without looking down. Up there, between two worlds, you realize Mallorca is more than sunbeds, beer, and sunblock.
Falling Rocks and Rising Thoughts
We’re now beneath the Massanella ridge, the island’s second-highest peak. In the distance, Puig Tomir stands like a proud exclamation mark. The views, the wind, the sun – they’re filling us up in all the best ways. One person is making tea, another writing in a journal. I stay silent. Mountains don’t require words. Just presence.
The way down is the same. But gravity turns stones into traps and ankles into collateral damage. One rock the size of a small Fiat just fell – a gentle reminder from nature that your Google review won’t save you here.
The Rewards
Back at the car, a sacred ritual unfolds: melon. Beer. Silence. We’re all a bit quieter now. Exhausted. Changed. The mountains always take something from you. But if they manage to take the right things – stress, ego, pettiness – then it was a good trade.
Lluc Monastery & Trail – Facts and Tips
📍 Location: Lluc Monastery is in the Serra de Tramuntana range. Easily accessible by car from Inca (northwest Mallorca).
🏔️ Pas des Grau (aka Bretxa Vella): A mountain pass beneath Puig de Massanella at around 1,200 m above sea level. Part of the GR222 route.
📏 Trail Length: Approx. 12–14 km round trip
⬆️ Elevation Gain: Around 800–900 m
🕓 Duration: 4–5 hours (depending on your legs… and your mental state)
⚠️ Difficulty: Moderate to challenging. The final section includes technical terrain and loose rocks.
📅 Best Time to Go: March–May or September–November. Avoid the scorching summer and slippery winter conditions.
🎒 What to Bring:
- Sturdy hiking boots (no sneakers!)
- At least 2 liters of water (no refill points)
- Sunglasses, sunscreen, hat
- Energy bars or a jamón-stuffed baguette
📌 Don’t Miss:
- Lluc Monastery and the Zero Mile Marker
- The views from Pas des Grau
- Old shepherd huts and crumbling stone shelters – Mallorca as it was before scooters and selfies
If you’re still hungry for more, there’s only one thing to do: head back out to Lluc, lace up, and let the stones tell their stories again.
