Today was our third and final day. With the train leaving at 3:30 PM, we figured we’d squeeze in one last ride – a light city loop to sample Žilina: Urban Cycling on footbikes The plan? No hills, no ruins, just a civilized return to reality. But let’s be honest: we’re not normal. And neither is Žilina.
Žilina Urban Cycling
We started once again from Žilina Reservoir and breezed down the familiar asphalt path along the Váh River toward Budatín—until, surprise: more construction closures. So we said: “Let’s go into the city. How about a little scooter sprint downtown?”
The Wild Pumptrack Under the Bridge
Beneath the railway bridge between Budatín and the city lies a chaotic urban playground—a freestyle pumptrack that looks like it was built from leftover concrete by a hyperactive architect with a BMX obsession. We gave it a shot (well, we mostly skirted around it), weaving through railway depots, turntables, tracks, and underpasses until—bam—we popped out on Bratislavská Street.
Let’s just say: not the most glamorous part of town.
We quickly escaped via Sasinkova Street and landed in SNP Park. And suddenly, we were in a whole new world.
Because Žilina?
It’s not one city. It’s three different towns that decided to live together.
The Three Centers of Žilina
Žilina is full of paradoxes. Not just different neighborhoods—three full-fledged centers, each with its own mood, rhythm, and flavor. And we hit them all.
In one morning.
One espresso.
Two beers.
And a killer Indian lunch.
1. Bernolákova Street – Socialism with a touch of Panonian Miami
We started at Bernolákova Street, where the local Aupark mall ends (or begins). Think wide concrete boulevards, shops frozen in the 1980s, the Hotel Poľana, the House of Unions, and that distinct symmetrical socialist city planning. And randomly wedged between it all: designer steakhouses and Instagram cafés.
You might say: “Boring.” But this is Žilina’s everyday engine room. This is where people shop, argue at the bank, and loiter near ATMs. Unfortunately, it’s also where wooden kiosks pretending to be traditional cabins sell nothing but fast food and feature stickers that proudly say: “Express WC.”
But respect where it’s due: the bakery here makes a damn fine poppy seed roll.
From there, we ducked through narrow alleys and mini markets and emerged on…
2. Mariánske Square – A Fairytale Old Town
Anyone who visits here instantly gets it: Žilina has a heart.
And it beats on Mariánske námestie.
This square, framed by arcaded burgher houses, is the city’s visual gem. The Capuchin Monastery watches from one end. A stone well covered in love locks adds some flair. Every house seems to whisper its own story.
In the middle: the Marian Column, surrounded by cafés, artisan shops, musicians, coffee aromas, and kitchen scents from every corner.
We sat down for a beer, then slipped into Burian’s narrow passage—which led us to our third center: Hlinka Square, once the site of a Váh riverbed.
Fiction or fact? Some say Mariánske Square was once a scooter racing loop for the mayor during tax inspections. Or maybe we just misread that in an old Hungarian guidebook.
3. Hlinka Square – Symmetry, Church, and Sausage Stands
Hlinka Square feels monumental. Surrounded by tall buildings, a big central fountain, and the Church of the Holy Trinity. But above all, it’s home to Burian’s Tower.
Burian’s Tower is like a shy Žilina native—it just stands there, says nothing, but commands your full attention. This 16th-century Renaissance belfry is the oldest tower in the city. You can even climb it—if you’re not carrying a scooter and a set of senior knees.
Next door is the Parish Church—modest, but full of atmosphere. And around the tower: Burian’s passages—tight stone alleys that link sections of the square and transport you to a time when walls were stone and privacy meant wooden doors.
What Else Did We See?
SNP Park (a.k.a. Bôrik)
An oasis above the city.
Memorials to fallen soldiers, benches, greenery, joggers, elderly ladies with dogs, young lovers, and us—scooters parked under a tree, heads tilted to the sky. If you need a break from cobblestones and noise—go here. Seriously.
Žilina Synagogue
Functionalist beauty turned modern gallery. We caught a contemporary art exhibit.
Striking. Strange. Thought-provoking.
Národná Street
Small, but mighty—boutiques, thrift shops, galleries, a canteen, bookshops, and the kind of place where a student with a petition or a one-string guitarist might stop you mid-step.
The Train Station (a final boss level)
One last challenge before home. I’ve noticed this for years:
Platform numbers are only announced three minutes before departure.
So it’s a full-on dash through underground corridors packed with people, luggage, strollers, kids, and naturally—us with scooters.
We survived.
Žilina – What You Shouldn’t Miss
- Mariánske Square – charming both day and night
- Burian’s Tower and its alleys – the city’s historical soul
- Parish Church + Hlinka Square – Žilina’s formal face
- SNP Park – for a pause, reflection, or a cookie
- Budatín Castle – which we visited the day before
- The Synagogue – visually bold and always a little outside the mainstream
- And of course – if you’re on wheels – the bike trail and pumptrack under the bridge
Because history needs contrast too.
Žilina: Urban Cycling Final Stats
Route: Žilina Reservoir – Budatín – pumptrack – Žilina city center and landmarks
Distance: ~10 km (felt like 50)
Cobblestone collisions: 3
Train staff warnings: 2
Pretty girls spotted: many
Places we said “we’re coming back here”: at least 3
Best meal: Indian restaurant Makalu (undisputed champion)
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