Two Castles via the Žilina Dam by footbike Riding a footbike feels like freedom. At least until you’re gasping for air and realize there’s no beer in Strečno.
We arrived in Žilina early on the morning train from Považie. No time to waste. We dropped our bags at the guesthouse near the station and set off. The goal? Starhrad and Strečno, two Castles via the Žilina dam, on our trusty Kostka footbikes. Time to explore what lies behind the dam—whose grand opening, I might add, I personally witnessed in 1998.
The Žilina Dam
Water, birds, and a headwind from hell.
The Žilina Reservoir is an engineering treat. It’s the only dam on the Váh River with a fully ecological hydroelectric power plant, powered by four Kaplan turbines. It generates clean energy and still lets fish swim upstream—there’s a fish ladder, basically an elevator for carp. Along both banks, EU funds gave birth to luxurious asphalt bike paths, perfect for bikes, skates, footbikes… and middle-aged daredevils like us.
The wind greeted us on the northern embankment—not head-on, not behind us, but from the side. Just enough to make everything hurt. We rolled past the KIA plant and into Varín, where there’s a rumored turn-off to Žilina’s new cycling crown jewel: a 26-km trail to Terchová. But we weren’t done soaking in the dam just yet. The views? Mirror-like water, birds, mountains. It was like National Geographic: Slovak Seniors Edition.
Nezábudská Meadow
Flowers, nostalgia, and a necessary beer stop.
From the reservoir, we veered toward Varín and made our first serious stop at a pub behind the station in Nezábudská lúčka. A pint of Martiner for €1.40 is a very good reason for a break when you’re from Bratislava. Here, not only our souls rested—but also our glutes. The meadow itself? Romantic, allegedly a historic kissing spot for young lovers. We must’ve come in the off-season—there were flowers, ticks, the Váh, endless grass… and paid parking signs every kilometer. Two Castles via the Žilina Dam costs some money. 🙂
Starhrad (The Old Castle)
A sweaty climb into history.
Past a bend in the river came the first true challenge: Starhrad. Also known as the Old Castle, though neither of us had seen it before—so for us, it was a new one.
First mentioned in 1321, Starhrad was owned by none other than Matúš Čák of Trenčín. It served as a watchtower over the Váh, collecting tolls from travelers moving north or south. In the 17th century, it was replaced by the more modern Strečno Castle, and Starhrad faded into ruin—though what’s left today is more than worth the climb.
Breathless and leaning on our footbikes, we joked this was like climbing Monte Zoncolan—but here, no one pretended to be a hero. Everyone pushed their scooter—coffee sippers and hardcore athletes alike.
Legend says the Knights Templar once searched for treasure here. All we found was a pile of rusty cans. Some enthusiasts claim there are secret cellars and caves under the castle. We found an empty bottle of local schnapps and a donation box. So we did our duty and dropped in a few euros. If our Ministry of Culture won’t restore it, someone should.
Johny bragged he’d ride his footbike down from the castle. Then he chickened out. I get it—his natural modesty wouldn’t let him show me up. We coasted back down to the Váh and aimed for Strečno.
Strečno Castle
A Slovak Disneyland for history nerds.
Soon we were greeted by the fully restored Strečno Castle, towering over the river like a proud monument to the past. Originally a military and trade checkpoint, in the 17th century it was ruled by Žofia Bosniaková, also known as the “Saint of Strečno.” Her embalmed body was on display in the chapel until 2009—when a madman set it on fire. Today, a replica stands in her place.
Inside, the museum exhibits armor, weapons, and local history. We skipped the tour for now—too short on time—and instead soaked in the view of the Váh winding below like a giant serpent. Then we dropped into Paseky.
Photo tip: The best photos of Strečno Castle? Take them from Nezábudská lúčka.
Archeopark Paseky
Slovak prehistory, now bike-accessible.
The downhill ride to Paseky was pure footbikes nirvana. Archeopark Paseky might not be on every tourist map, but it’s worth the detour. It’s a replica of a 9th-century Slavic settlement, showing how people lived—no electricity, no phones, no footbikes (a tragedy). Sometimes they host medieval festivals, battle reenactments, or craft fairs. We found a few reconstructed huts, some refillable drinking water, and a moment of mercy for our aching knees.
Strečno (a.k.a. Gastro Ghost Town)
Come for the castle. Don’t stay hungry.
If you’re dreaming of lunch in Strečno—dream smaller. We followed the now-closed rafting docks back onto the Váh cycling trail with high hopes for beer and hot food.
Spoiler: no luck.
Half the trail, we passed flower beds, gardens, shimmering backwaters… and not a single open buffet. Desperate, we detoured into the village. First pizzeria: closed. Locals sent us “somewhere toward the center” for ice cream.
Second pizzeria: technically open, but empty. No staff, no customers. Is anyone alive in Strečno? We gave up on that patio too.
We spotted a promising Šariš sign… but the place looked like it had been dead since 2009.
Starving and frustrated, we returned to the trail. Then—sun umbrellas! A lady appeared!
“It’s windy today, I’m closed. But try again tomorrow or at Mojšova Lúčka,” she smiled. We did not.
Return to Žilina
Peace, wind at our backs, and eventual salvation.
We returned to Žilina via the southern shore of the reservoir. It was eerily quiet.
“Kingdom for a beer, a pizza, or at least a sausage!”
At last, we reached the terrace at Mojšova Lúčka, where we finally fed our weary souls. The wind was finally at our backs—or maybe it just felt that way after 30 kilometers of riding.
Two Castles via the Žilina Dam
Who would’ve thought that two senior guys buying fitness kick footbikes would end up on an adventure worthy of National Geographic? We weren’t discovering the Amazon of Moravia—but if you’ve ever pushed a footbike up to Starhrad with an empty thermos in your backpack, not much scares you anymore.
Our bodies screamed couch, but we shouted back: bike trail!
One last glance at the pump track, then a shower, a glass of Veltlín, and a poppy seed cake. All was well. Viva Slovakia.
Strečno via Žilina Reservoir – Recap
Route: Žilina – Varín – Nezábudská lúčka – Starhrad – Strečno – Archeopark Paseky – back along southern dam path to Žilina
- Distance: ~32 km
- Elevation gain: Enough to remember it on a footbike
- Experience rating: 10/10
- Scrapes and bruises: 1
- Price of Martiner beer: €1.40 – priceless
- Hunger blackouts: 3
- Breathtaking views: countless
- Knee complaints: also countless
