“If you don’t know where to go in the morning – just head for coffee. And if there’s a castle on the way, even better. Historical Bytča on footbikes via Hričov”
This was meant to be a chill trip. A few manor houses, a nice bike path, tailwind, and a cozy lunch before hopping on the train home. We were footbiking to Bytča via the Váh Cycling route above Hričov. The plan? No hills, just culture, coffee, and footbike Zen.
And how did it go?
Žilina’s Urban Maze
Like a video game with broken code.
Viaducts, underpasses, roundabouts, roads that start and end in concrete walls or railway crossings. Our GPS helpfully chimed: “Turn left and leap into the abyss.”
We threaded through Žilina’s transportation labyrinth, ducking under platforms, dodging construction zones and random fences. Around MŠK Žilina stadium and the local Treska bar, we played a game of three wrong turns, one lucky guess. Two underpasses, an overpass, a bridge, and another underpass finally brought us to the official bike route – which, naturally, was closed for renovation.
Kafka would be proud. Detour. Backtrack. Second try. A bridge, then a sparkling new but utterly deserted underpass. Not a soul in sight. Excellent grafiti. And no wonder. Who the heck could find this place?
We finally saw the gate to Budatín Castle Park… oh wait, staff-only entrance. No signs. U-turn again. Two streets over – finally, the main entrance.
Pro tip: Next time, just take a taxi.
Budatín castle: Coffee and a Park You Won’t Forget
After a few kilometers (and many footbike-scraping curbs), we reached Budatín Castle. We didn’t go inside – our mission to reach Bytča was relentless – but we knew it housed the Považie Museum, famous for its collection of tinkering crafts. Because where else would you see a copper rooster on a coat hanger?
We peeked into the chapel, then headed to Bastion Café for excellent espresso and strudel. That alone was worth the detour.
The 2.5 km of Hell
From Budatín, we optimistically followed the detour through Považský Chlmec. If anyone tells you the south route is underused, this is why. Narrow village roads, no sidewalks, and trucks flying by inches from our knees. I wouldn’t take a kid through here even for a bet.
Eventually, a separated bike path appeared. Kind of. A uniquely Slovak cycling experience: 300m smooth asphalt, 300m broken road, 300m gravel, 300m random trail through a field a shrine…
We gave up and went back on the road. Another truck whizzed by and buzzed our calves like a mosquito. He even smiled.
We reached Divinka Castle and veered off to see the beautiful but crumbling manor house. Abandoned but elegant. Built in the 18th century, now waiting for better days (or a property developer). Locals say Empress Sisi once visited – but judging by its state, it probably housed communist storage units and goats.
At the end of the bike route by Hričovská Dam, a symbolic cross greeted us. We felt it.
Hričov Dam
A small but mighty part of the river Váh Cascade, built in 1957 – the first in the series. It’s still running 24/7 and powers thousands of households.
The northern trail was… an adrenaline test. Until EU funds arrive, we’re not coming back.
Fun fact: The Váh is Slovakia’s longest river (403 km) and its most energy-efficient thanks to 22 hydroelectric plants along its course.
Hričov Kotešová cycling route
Suddenly, paradise. From Hričov to Kotešová, the path was E.U.-quality perfection – our favorite stretch of this three-day footbike odyssey. Smooth tarmac, silence, and pure nature between the river and the canal. We detoured to a pond, where I thought: “I want a cottage here.” Probably everyone does.
Then came the Kotešová castle – beautifully restored, privately owned, not open to the public but clearly rescued. Across the street, we tried a pub—closed till 2 PM.
Salvation came in the form of a 49-cent can of Krušovice at the COOP shop, guarded by a crew of local homeless.
The Jewish Cemetery
Our last stop before Bytča (or so we thought) was the abandoned Jewish cemetery. Well-maintained, peaceful, a sobering reminder of the once-vibrant Jewish community here.
We found a memorial plaque to Holocaust victims. We stood silent. Grateful.
And we couldn’t help but reflect: just a short walk from the birthplace of a man responsible for deporting tens of thousands to Auschwitz.
Bytča
Where history isn’t just background.
We rolled in along the embankment and entered Bytča’s compact, charming center. Restored townhouses house cafés, bakeries, and a cycle shop – where I finally inflated my tires and bought a bell.
And then… a real hot meal and cold beer.
The waitress served us Moravian roast pork at a fair price. No attempt to push €18 sheep cheese dumplings like in the tourist traps of Malá Fatra. That, my friends, is true hospitality.
The jewel of the town is the Renaissance Bytča Castle, built in the 17th century by György Thurzó. One of Slovakia’s finest Renaissance landmarks. Its Wedding Palace once hosted multi-day aristocratic weddings. Today, you’ll find ceremonies, exhibitions, and concerts.
Did you know? Bytča’s Wedding Palace is one of the few preserved Renaissance wedding palaces in Central Europe.
Over and Under the river Váh
We weren’t done. We rode to the edge of Bytča, crossed a field of rapeseed, and arrived at… a tunnel under the Váh. I’ve biked through rail tunnels, but never under a river.
On the other side, we found the under-construction extension of the bike trail from Považská Bystrica—next year’s adventure for sure.
We returned across a stylish suspension bridge. Historical Bytča on footbikes was done succesflly.
Train Ride Home: With footbikes and Questions
Is a Kostka footbike considered a bike? Do we need to pay extra?
We simplified the return: train from Bytča to Žilina. One train had just left; the next would arrive in an hour. “The station’s just a short walk,” someone said.
So we stopped by Záhradkári bar, grabbed a cold beer, and got chatting with a Paralympic archer in a wheelchair, casually holding a bow and arrow. We missed one train—and almost missed the second.
Note: You can’t reach the station in ten minutes. Not even on a footbikes.
The train was already braking as we unfolded our rides. Tickets online, footbikes secured, and we sat by the window watching the day’s route fly by in reverse.
Final flourish: a short promotional ride across Andrej Hlinka Square, and then… the couch.
Historical Bytča on footbikes – Recap
Route: Žilina – Budatín Castle – Bastion – Hričov Dam – Divinka – Kotešová – Bytča – train back
- Distance (including detours): ~35 km
- Culture hits: 4 manor houses, 1 cemetery, 1 espresso, 3 beers
- Education gained: Vast
- Random races with kids: 2
- Admiring glances at our footbikes: 27
- Swearing at Hričov: 5
- Lost glasses: 1
