The day isn’t over yet. We continue along the Vltava cycling route, following the Royal Route on our scooters towards Hradčany and Malá Strana. But first, we cross Charles Bridge.
Charles Bridge
Legend has it that Emperor Charles IV wanted the bridge to last forever, so builders mixed raw eggs into the mortar to strengthen it. To ensure they had enough eggs, messengers were sent across the kingdom. One town (some say it was Kouřim) tried to be extra clever—they sent boiled eggs instead of raw ones.
Instead of eggs, Charles Bridge statues are now reinforced with pigeon droppings.
When the messengers arrived in Prague and the eggs were cracked open, the builders were stunned. No one knew whether to laugh or cry. And so, Kouřim became the butt of jokes for centuries!
We arrive under the Malá Strana Bridge Tower ten minutes before two—just in time for my interview with the manager of the Karel Zeman Museum, a one-of-a-kind museum located right here in Kampa.
Karel Zeman Museum
We park our footbikes and dive into an interactive world of childhood fantasy. To the prehistoric era, to a comet. To the world of Baron Prášil. We fly on winged machines and cannonballs. If you have kids, this is a must. It’s like stepping back in time 50 years.
The Karel Zeman Interactive Museum is just a short walk from the Charles Bridge
We keep the “Na Kampě” site for the next day as a supplement. Johny and Zuzka had a great idea to climb the castle stairs with scooters to Hradčany. This is also a way to get the heart rate above 130 bpm.
Hradčany and Malá Strana
Being old and sick has its perks in Hradčany—especially when buying tickets. Gone are the days of wandering St. Vitus Cathedral freely. Everything is ticketed. And crowded. I’ve seen the catacombs, the cathedral, the tower, Golden Lane, and Daliborka several times before. The real treat for me was getting into the Old Royal Palace and Vladislav Hall.
Old Royal Palace
Have you noticed that the vaulted ceilings of the Old Royal Palace are just for show? Non-functional? When Vladislaus II of Hungary (after whom the hall is named) was young, he wasn’t exactly a fearless warrior. He preferred diplomacy over battles. His knights mocked him behind his back, saying he could use some courage—especially on horseback.
So, to prove he wasn’t afraid, he built Vladislav Hall so massive that horseback tournaments could be held inside the castle. Instead of practicing in the field, jousting tournaments took place indoors. There was even a special ramp for riders to enter on horseback.
So I found it amusing when they wouldn’t let us inside on our Kostka scooters. Instead, we revisited copies of the coronation jewels (just like in Ostrava).
Basilica of St. George
The real gem, however, was the Basilica of St. George. Its Romanesque, austere, and monumental interior is complemented by the tombs of the Přemyslid royal family, including Saint Wenceslas’s father, Duke Vratislav I. The atmosphere inside is truly unique.
One of the most important figures buried here is Princess Ludmila, Saint Wenceslas’s grandmother and the first (and hopefully not last) Czech female saint. She was murdered on the orders of her daughter-in-law Drahomíra, Wenceslas’s mother, in 921 at Tetín Castle. Her death was the result of family intrigues and the struggle between paganism and Christianity in early Bohemia.
When her remains were moved to the Basilica of St. George, the church became a significant political and religious center, strengthening the Přemyslid dynasty’s Christian identity—and that of the Czech state.
We skip Golden Lane and Daliborka. No matter how fast you rush through, don’t expect to spend less than two hours in Hradčany. We also wanted to explore Nový Svět, but it was too far out of the way. Another time. Hradčany offers plenty of experiences—but very little beer.
Crossing the Powder Bridge and Jelení Příkop on our scooters, we reach the Prague Castle Riding Hall and the Lion’s Court. It looks like a good spot for lunch. I check the menu: 198 CZK.
“Let’s go for it,” I said.
“Are you crazy? That’s just for the soup,” Zuzka corrects me.
We flee Hradčany at full speed. Fortunately, a quick downhill ride along Mariánské Hradby takes us to Letná Plain. There’s a great cycling path here. Time to find a reasonably priced meal and check out the last stop of the day—what’s left of the “Meat Queue”?
Letná
Letná’s vast open spaces have played a role in historical social transformations multiple times. In 1989, a million people gathered here daily, longing for freedom.
Today, the Prague Metronome, also called the “Time Machine,” dominates Letná Plain. It symbolizes the unstoppable passage of time and serves as a reminder of the past. Once, this spot was home to the megalomaniac Stalin Monument, which locals mockingly called the “Meat Queue.” The entire Letná district was even nicknamed “Záprdelí” (literally, “Behind-the-Ass”).
There was a joke about how Europe’s largest monument came to be:
When Stalin visited Prague to see where his monument would stand, they showed him Letná Plain.
He said, “Очень приятно.”
Then he asked for details and was shown sketches. They told him it would require 17,000 tons of material.
Stalin asked how much it would cost.
When they told him the price, he turned to stone on the spot.
We check out the “eternal flames“—only to find broken bottles and beer cans. Taking 49 photos of Zuzka in various poses and crisscross Letná on our scooters. We even discover Prague’s highest-placed chair. That’s it for today.
Back to Hradčany and Malá Strana
All that’s left is the climb to Žižkov and multiple rounds to the Žižkov brewery.. Zuzka tries a different type of two-wheeler on Celetná Street but insists she wouldn’t trade her Kostka scooter. We don’t believe her. We’re thirsty as cows.
Seven hours on our feet, over 30 km covered, more than 300 meters of elevation gain, and even some flying. But we don’t feel tired at all. That’s why we swear by Kostka footbikes. Pushing ourselves to the limit, we finally make it to the brewery.
Kostkovic Prague
Footbike are perfect for the city. Simple, functional, and nearly indestructible. No frame to climb over. Just plant your foot, and you’re a pedestrian. Push off, and you’re flying. Sometimes, you can glide for hundreds of meters without touching the ground. With even the slightest downhill slope, you can ride for kilometers non-stop. And, naturally, you push a bit on inclines.
But the best part? You experience a different Prague. Away from the tourist crowds, you reach places no average visitor ever will. It’s far more authentic.
And the distances? You’d never cover them on foot—your legs would be worn down to your knees. A bike? Nope. Constantly mounting and dismounting in crowded streets would drive you crazy.
Tomorrow: Nusle Bridge (a.k.a. the “Suicide Bridge”), Vyšehrad, and the National Technical Museum.
