The plan is simple. Along the Vltava to historic Old Prague, Orloj and Ungelt. Exploring the cycling paths along the river, the Royal Route, Hradčany, then Letná, understanding what’s meant by “Fronta na maso” (the Stalins infamous meat line), and finishing the day at some Czech Brewery.
Today, everything is smooth. Our host was thoughtful, and our scooters are safely stored in the luggage room, right by the entrance. After a hearty breakfast—an absolute must for Johny—we set off. Well, restart. We unfold our scooters and head downhill through the alleys of Žižkov. Johny eyes the stairs leading up to the Vítkov Hill and the Žižka statue with a mix of dread and suspicion. Since last night, I’ve been telling him that the only way to the Vltava is over that hill.
St. Agnes Convent: A Moment of Peace
We roll down all the way to the steps. I savor Johny’s last attempts at negotiation:
“Are you sure there’s no other way down?” he asks, hopefully.
“Nope,” I grin, glance at the stairs, smile mischievously, push off on my scooter, and disappear into the small passage right next to them.
Žižkov Tunnel
A loud THUD echoes behind me. That’s the sound of Johny’s relief hitting the ground—he won’t have to lug his scooter over the hill.
Getting somewhere while also doing something good for your health? Sounds like a win. Fresh air, a clear mind, a good stretch—what more could you ask for? Especially when you’re cruising downhill through a tunnel.
In less than fifteen minutes, we roll into Karlín. This neighborhood has transformed dramatically—Rohanské nábřeží is now a sleek modern district, and just beyond it, a cycling path awaits. Before we climb up to the Vltava Cycle Route, we make a quick detour to Invalidovna. I mean, who wouldn’t want a photo in front of Prague’s funeral home?
Vltava Cycle Route
We hit the cycling path. Prague along the Vltava. Passing Holešovice’s docks and Karlín, we zoom across Štvanice Island like the wind. The path is nearly empty, and my Kostka scooter’s industrial-grade bearings are practically whispering:
“Push harder, go faster—you still have all your teeth, and your nose is (for now) free of road rash.”
The cycle route is a dream—no stops, no detours, no pushing, no lifting. In less than twenty minutes, we cruise past the legendary Botel Albatros, once a hotspot for Prague’s elite. We roll over the Tesnov Tunnel, once nicknamed “Husák’s Silence”—a socialist-era project to keep noise away from the Communist Party’s headquarters so they could focus on their noble work.
Old Town Square and Ungelt
It’s almost noon, and Zuzka, like a true tourist, insists on seeing Orloj, the prague astronomical clock chime. Near St. Agnes Convent, we turn into the city center. We’re all looking forward to something—Zuzka to the Clock, Johny to a warm kebab (he hasn’t eaten in an hour), and me to Ungelt.
Honestly, I’m more interested in watching the eager tourists, who’ve spent a small fortune to witness this spectacle, slowly realizing that the show lasts barely a minute.
“That’s it?”
Legend has it that the Clock’s creator, Master Hanuš, was blinded by Prague’s city council to prevent him from ever making another masterpiece. In revenge, he supposedly shoved his hand into the Clock’s gears, jamming the mechanism so badly it remained broken for years. The truth? Probably less dramatic. Historical records suggest that the Clock was built in 1410 by Mikuláš of Kadaň, based on calculations by astronomer Jan Šindel, and that Hanuš kept both his eyesight and his hands intact.
Ungelt
What excites me far more is the stunning Church of Our Lady before Týn, standing like a gateway to Ungelt. In the early Middle Ages, this fortified merchant courtyard was walled off from the rest of the city, and traders had to pay for protection—a tax known in Old High German as Ungelt. Much like Krakow’s Kazimierz district or Prague’s Jewish Quarter, Ungelt has an undeniable charm.
And on a Kostka scooter? Absolute bliss. Push off, ride with the wind, and when you step off, you’re instantly a pedestrian again.
The Royal Route on Kostka footbike
We wander through Ungelt for almost an hour before reaching the Powder Tower and Celetná Street. From there, we attempt to ride the Royal Route to Charles Bridge.
This historic path runs from the Powder Tower through the heart of Prague, following the route of coronation processions for Bohemian kings. It connects two royal residences—the Prague Castle and the Old Town’s Royal Court, once located where the Municipal House stands today.
A few hundred meters in, we realize that scootering through Prague’s busiest tourist corridor isn’t exactly practical. So, we take side streets, cutting through in minutes.
Some things you win, some things you lose. Sure, we avoid the cobblestones, but we also miss out on the envious stares from exhausted pedestrians. A good scooter with big wheels and smooth bearings is a must-have, a perfect choice, an easy go—basically, the ultimate way to get around a flat city.
We make our way across Old Prague toward Charles Bridge and Malá Strana. Up next? Discovering Zeman, Hradčany, and Fronta na maso. Onward to Hradčany! 🚀
