When I registered for the 11th edition of the Tuscany Crossing ultra trail around the Orcia Valley, I already felt like a seasoned veteran—a big hero of sorts—having visited Tuscany three times before, albeit for different events. To everyone I met, I proudly explained that the course would be a mix of gravel and asphalt, undulating hills, and relentless heat. Honestly, the heat worried me the most. By mid-March, temperatures here can easily hit 28°C, with little to no shade in sight. But as I checked the weather forecast en route to the race, I began to wonder if I had packed enough winter gear. All my stress melted away upon arrival, though, as I found myself once again in one of the most breathtaking corners of the world.
Pre-Race Dance and an Early Start
The registration process and pre-race rituals were handled with Italian precision, everything running smoothly. The only downside was our accommodation being 10 kilometers away from the starting line, which, on Tuscany’s winding roads, translated to a 40-minute drive. Add to that the peculiar start time of 5:15 a.m. Why so early? Especially in late April when it’s still dark until after 6 a.m.? Oh well. Fortunately, I have a dedicated wife who drove me to Castiglione d’Orcia in the pre-dawn hours, where the 100-mile race had kicked off at 5 p.m. the previous evening, and our event would now begin.
Before I knew it, we were off. The front runners set a blistering pace, running uphill at a 4-minute-per-kilometer tempo and downhill even faster. I had told myself not to get caught up in their frenzy, but how could I resist? My euphoria was soon interrupted by a bad step and a twisted ankle. Hobbling along, I found my rhythm and comfort zone, mentally scolding myself: “Don’t wreck yourself at the second kilometer, you fool!”
The course plunged steeply downhill before climbing sharply again, leading us through the charming village of Bagno Vignoni, known for its ancient thermal baths right in the town square. Here, I switched off my headlamp and vowed not to use it again until the finish line.
Sunrise over San Quirico d’Orcia
My only cheerleader for the day, my wonderful wife, waited for me in San Quirico d’Orcia (10 km in). The town itself was still fast asleep, but I felt energized by the crisp morning air—6°C at the start—and the first rays of sunlight painting the Tuscan countryside.
At Pienza (21 km), I reached the second aid station, having skipped the first one. Here, strong headwinds greeted us. Knowing the course looped around the valley, I optimistically looked forward to having the wind at my back in the latter half (spoiler: not quite).
Never Alone on the Trail
The 100-mile runners had completed their 60 km night loop and rejoined our course, so I found myself overtaking many of them. Despite their weariness after 80 km, most returned my words of encouragement with smiles. We also shared the trail with Nordic walkers who had started at midnight, with some tackling the full 103 km distance. Adding to the lively atmosphere, the 53 km runners started 45 minutes after us, ensuring a continuous flow of camaraderie. Solitude wasn’t on the menu, but that only added to the race’s fantastic vibe.
The rolling terrain brought me to Monticchiello, another picturesque slice of Tuscan history. Here, I could focus less on my footing—gravel and asphalt dominated—and more on soaking in the stunning scenery. Whether it was the medieval streets or the iconic 50 shades of green, the landscape felt straight out of the movie Gladiator.
The Long Valley Stretch
A 16-kilometer stretch across the Orcia Valley tested us with a strong headwind. I managed to maintain a decent pace, though I was soon passed by the leading 53 km runner. Not long after, I found him squatting by the roadside, a humbling reminder of the urgency nature sometimes imposes. Trail running has its unglamorous moments, but they’re all part of the experience.
Later, I reached a shallow river crossing where the local civil protection team had even set up a rope for safety. The water barely reached my ankles, so I plowed straight through. My gamble with wet feet paid off, as blisters didn’t become an issue. What followed, however, was a sandy section where the grit stuck to everything.
Gallina and Gourmet Aid Stations
The village of Gallina greeted me with another aid station, this one a feast: prosciutto, cheeses (yes, Grana Padano and Parmigiano Reggiano included), salami, and cakes. These aid stations were a runner’s dream, and I couldn’t resist spending a little extra time at each. Even beer was on offer, but I had to pace myself to ensure I made it to the finish.
The next climb, a 600-meter ascent, felt surprisingly manageable, and soon I reached Campiglia d’Orcia, home to a charming Gothic chapel perched high above. After refueling with my drop bag essentials—including an obligatory Austrian energy drink—I tackled the climb to the chapel, passing more streams and steep, winding paths marked with 20% gradients.
The “White Whale” and a Grueling Climb
Descending to Bagni San Filippo, a thermal town known for its sulfuric springs and the striking “White Whale” limestone formation, the temptation to take a dip in the hot waters was strong. But ahead lay the toughest climb of the course: Vivo d’Orcia, the highest point at 1,100 meters.
The ascent was grueling, with rain turning into sleet as I layered up with my second jacket. Mud, rocks, and a relentless gradient tested my resolve. By the time I reached the snowy summit, the anticipated downhill relief turned into a slippery, technical descent, where deep ruts made smooth running impossible.
Home Stretch
At Vivo d’Orcia, I refueled at a rustic aid station and braced myself for the final stretch. The trails remained rugged, with knee-deep mud and endless twists. By the time I reached Poggio Rosa, I was relieved to find another well-stocked checkpoint with beer and cheese, but I knew the last 16 kilometers would be the hardest.
A sudden storm rolled in as I approached the finish. Thunder rumbled, and rain pelted down, creating a dramatic backdrop for the final grueling climb—400 meters over 3 kilometers. With the finish line in sight, all fatigue vanished. The cheering crowd and the medieval castle of Castiglione d’Orcia made for a triumphant finale.
Reflection
I crossed the finish line in 12:07, a personal best for a course of this caliber. Tuscany Crossing ultra is a remarkable race, blending impeccable organization with unparalleled scenery. The first half dazzles with its iconic landscapes, while the second half challenges with rugged trails. Whether tackling the full 102 km or the 53 km highlight reel, this event is a must for any trail runner.
A heartfelt thanks to Slovak Ultra Trail for giving me the opportunity to experience this unforgettable journey through Tuscany.
