While planning our trip through Latvia, I kept stumbling upon something called the “Hill of Crosses.” At first, I brushed it off – after all, it’s in Lithuania, not even on our itinerary. But something kept drawing me back. Eventually, I clicked. And I’m glad I did.
I found out that the Hill of Crosses isn’t far from the Latvian border. And more importantly – it’s not just a religious pilgrimage site. It’s a symbol of resistance, one that survived occupations, bans, and erasure. Decision made – I had to see it.
A Trip That Required a Compromise
From familiar Jurmala, it wasn’t easy. No direct routes, rare bus or train connections. So for the first time, we turned to a travel agency. Minibus, booking, done. And that was the right call.
Our guide Janis – witty, knowledgeable, fluent in English – filled our journey with incredible insights. He even stopped the bus at the Lithuanian border so we could snap a photo. After a quick break, we headed to our destination.
Souvenir Stalls, a Narrow Tunnel, and a View That Silences
The minibus parked near a row of low buildings – souvenirs, magnets, amber, crosses… No doubt we’d arrived. We walked through a narrow passageway between the shops and were met with a hill brimming with crosses. From afar, it looked surreal. The closer we got, the bigger it loomed. And the more crosses we saw.
Hill of Crosses
A Place Where Time Stands Still. The Hill, though modest in size, is a labyrinth of narrow paths where crosses seem scattered without order. From towering three-meter giants to tiny wooden tokens left by tourists – each one carries a story. Gratitude. A plea. A memory. Even yours could find a place here.
Crosses That Even Tanks Couldn’t Destroy
History says the Hill of Crosses emerged around 1831. The Soviets tried to destroy it multiple times. In vain. People returned, bringing more. Every destroyed cross brought ten new ones. The hill kept growing.
In the 20th century, it became a symbol of defiance against communist rule. In 1993, Pope John Paul II visited and gifted a statue of Christ, which still greets pilgrims today.
200,000 Crosses– or Maybe More
Janis said there were more than 200,000 crosses. But who’s counting? New ones appear daily. The number doesn’t matter. What counts is what the place radiates – an atmosphere no photo or words can truly capture.
Back Through Jelgava – With a Memory and a Meal
On the way back, we stopped in Jelgava – a Latvian city with the largest Baroque palace in the Baltics. And a delicious lunch to wrap up a journey that etched itself into my memory. The Hill of Crosses wasn’t just a trip. It was an experience. And I recommend it to anyone who’s ready to feel something real.
