When you hear the phrase “climbing a mountain,” you picture sweat, effort, and a heroic struggle with elevation. But in Bulgaria, things work a little differently. When I decided to conquer Vitosha, the highest peak around Sofia (2,290 m), I was mentally prepared for a mountain hike, maybe even a cable car ride. What I didn’t expect? That I could reach the very top by city bus. Yes, you read that right. Hiking Sofia: Vitosha is accessible even by public transport.
Climbing Vitosha
While in other countries you either hike up winding trails or pay a hefty sum for a cable car, in Sofia, all you need is a valid public transport ticket. Bus number 66, an old socialist-era vehicle, departs from Paradise Mall. It could easily be a monument to times when the world wasn’t yet drowning in a climate crisis. It took us all the way up to the Aleko ski resort, just a short walk from the summit.
Vitosha Summit
The ride itself was an experience. The driver maneuvered as if testing the limits of physics. With every turn, it felt like we would either plunge into the valley or set a Bulgarian record for bus drifting. Around me, local excursionists sat with picnic baskets and thermoses filled with rakia, completely unfazed by this mode of transport. Meanwhile, I was trying not to panic at the sight of the narrow mountain roads and the expressions of hikers we passed, who were diligently climbing on foot, staring in disbelief as we cruised past them in a city bus.
When we got off the bus, I still felt like I was cheating. No sweaty shirt, no scraped knees, not even that inner sense of accomplishment. So, I took at least a symbolic walk to the summit, where I was rewarded with a breathtaking view of Sofia and the surrounding mountains.
Bulgarian Mountains
Vitosha and Its Wild Sisters. Vitosha may be the most famous, but Bulgaria is full of other mountain ranges that would have legendary status in other countries. Rila, with its Seven Rila Lakes and Musala (2,925 m), the highest peak in the Balkans, is a paradise for serious mountaineers. Pirin, with its marble peaks, looks dramatic—straight out of a fantasy movie. And the Rhodopes? They are a romantic’s dream—rolling green hills, hidden villages, and legends of Orpheus, who is said to have been born here.
Natural Beauty
Reaching the summit of Vitosha feels like standing in the middle of a bustling square. With clear skies and endless views, the Black Peak (2,290 m) is a vast, rocky plateau offering panoramic views of Sofia and neighboring mountain ranges. It’s not a dramatic Alpine peak but rather a sprawling stone expanse where the wind constantly reminds you that you’re at a significant altitude.
On weekends, it transforms into a lively mountain promenade—hikers, families with children, runners in sleek athletic wear, and seasoned mountaineers mingle with city visitors who arrived via cable car or the legendary bus. Near Aleko hut, the air is filled with the aroma of grilled meat and tea, groups spread out picnic blankets, and somewhere, a radio or guitar is always playing.
Although you’re high up, the atmosphere is more laid-back than rugged—Vitosha is the kind of mountain where you can relax just as easily as you can exercise. And when the sun begins to set, bathing Sofia below in golden light, you understand why so many people return here every weekend.
The Infernal Cable Car
On the way back down, the lazier among us couldn’t resist: “Look, they’ve restarted the cable car.”
We approached to inquire about the price. The attendant simply said, “Do you want to go down? Get in.”
We listened. We shouldn’t have. Never take the cable car all the way to the lower station in summer. There’s nothing there except a massive parking lot. The nearest bus stop is 2 km away. But that stop is closed. So is the next one. After 5 km of walking on asphalt, we finally caught a bus. That called for a beer.
Bulgarian Mountains Have It All
From wild nature to unassuming grandmothers selling homemade cheese and honey at every hiking trail, or cheerful cable car operators amused by tourists’ naivety—Bulgarian mountains offer a bit of everything. And while Vitosha may seem too accessible, it still has its charm and, believe me, there’s plenty of walking to be done.
Maybe it’s the combination of mountain atmosphere and the fact that you can reach the top by a simple city bus, where elderly passengers will gladly tell you where to find the best Shopska salad.
Hiking Sofia: Vitosha
As I returned to Sofia that evening, I was still undecided. Was our “climb” up Vitosha a success or just a sophisticated version of tourist laziness? But one thing is certain—it’s the only mountain where you can reach the summit via public transport while reading a book without the risk of tumbling into a ravine. And that’s something!
The conclusion was predictable. A little beer and a little culture. If you can call Johny’s piano playing culture, that is.
