Somewhere in the middle, between Evora, Estremoz and Redondo. In the middle of nowhere. After the first look at the shots from Herdade do Freixo, I knew I had to go in there. Like an ultra-modern futuristic corkscrew drilled 30m straight into a vineyard. I wonder if I’ve ever been in a vineyard so modern, clean-style and tastefully conceived.
Arranging a visit due to the shortness of time was not easy. But finally, at 4 p.m. on Saturday, it was a success. After yesterday’s visit to the historic José de Sousa winery in Monsaraz and a morning at the local market in Estremoz, we stood outside the closed gates of Herdade do Freixo. Fifteen minutes before our appointment, someone arrived and unlocked the gates.
What opens up to us is a nearly mile-long dirt road through the farmhouse to the wineyards.
We come to the complex itself. There are a few cars parked here, but not a foot anywhere. We go inside. We open the door, we’re in the lobby. The view from inside over the vineyards is spectacular. I open the second door… and my sledge falls. The architect who designed this jewel certainly loves wine and his work.
Herdade do Freixo
The entire vine complex is designed to accentuate the minimalist clean lines while preserving the rural character of the landscape. At first glance, it is an innovative winery designed with technical and aesthetic rigour. What sets it apart is its discreet location, nestled in the heart of the vineyards. This unique building, with the vineyards on the roof is centre of 300 hectares of the Alentejo wine region, absioluttely integrates the building with its natural surroundings.
The epicentre of the building evokes a huge wine corkscrew sunk into the ground. There are a total of three floors under the vineyard, with a bold and unexpected ramp architecture that ends up in the wine cellars. This helps to maintain a stable temperature for the maturation and archiving of wines in different seasons in an energy-efficient way. This unique architectural concept is extraordinary not only in Portugal but throughout Europe.
Passion and philosophy
The investors have spared no expense. The land and the complex belonging to Herdade do Freixo come from their passion for the land and the wine. Respect for nature. Sustainability and moving forward with the ambition to build a generational reference project that will preserve the centuries-old authenticity of the property. The endeavour aims to maintain the rural landscape, protect the local fauna and flora, and produce wines of unquestionable quality. I found all of the above in the middle of a wild landscape.
Not only the architecture but also the processes
At Herdade do Freixo, we’re committed to preserving the potential of our grapes and respecting the wine during fermentation and maturation. That’s why we’ve excluded the use of pumps in our entire complex. Instead, we rely on natural gravity throughout the production process as a whole, ensuring that every step is taken to maintain the quality of our wines.
Cultivated varieties
The red varieties Touriga National, Cabernet Savignon, Alicante Bouschet, Petit Verdot, and Syrah thrive in the terroir of Freixo. The white varieties Savignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonay, and the local clones Alvarinho and Arinto are also worth mentioning.
“Having land and not destroying it is the most beautiful art anyone could ever want to own.”
Andy Warhol
Wine tasting
After the first taste of wine, I understood that Herdade do Freixo has ambitions not only in exceptional architecture but also in producing exceptional wines. No wonder most of the wines have the Reserva attribute.
We tasted both mono wines and a Freixo blend of several varieties. The balance and harmony were beyond expectations. I admit that I probably did not have a better wine in Portugal.
When I prudently inquired about the price, they also surprised me. These are not wines for everyday drinking. It’s more of a gourmet experience. Still, those prices are more than pleasant compared to the likes of French St. Emilion. We discovered a piano on the lower floor of the wine cellars. The truly unique acoustic experience complemented the taste of the wine. And you can hear how such Chopin sounds in the temple of wine here, a truly fascinating experience.
Herdade do Freixo offers a comprehensive experience. For the eyes, the tongue and the ears. 🙂
The hour flew by like water. We bought some bottles for the evening. A few more glances at the vineyard complex, and we’re on our way. A Monte Evora castle awaits us, and the road to our base is in Evora itself. We’ll taste the bottle in the evening.
Wines are like perfumes. You can tell the quality ones by their long taste. I wake up in the morning and squint. I can still taste them on my tongue.
