Another sunrise, another headwind. North Macedonia greets me with mountains, silence, and roads full of stories.
From Greece to North Macedonia
Day 34: Wind, Hills, and New Horizons. Greece waved me goodbye with one last sunrise over the sea. I turned my back to the coast and started climbing again – because from now on, there’s only uphill.
And just to keep things fair, the wind switched sides too. When I was heading west, it blew from the west. Now that I’m going north, it’s blowing straight from the north. It’s like I’ve been cycling through a meteorological joke. I must’ve picked the season when everyone flies kites – the wind never stops.
I covered around a hundred kilometers today, but most of it was just pure pedaling. No cafés, no small talk, just the rhythm of the road and the steady whisper of my tires. Some days on a cycling journey are more about endurance than discovery.
Crossing into North Macedonia
The border crossing was smooth, but I instantly felt the change. The country looks poorer, the roads are narrower, the cars older. And the plastic bottles? Still there, scattered like breadcrumbs of modern neglect. From Turkey through Greece and now here, they line the roadside, quiet witnesses of how we travel.
Yet, North Macedonia is stunning. The road runs through a long valley embraced by mountains – a landscape that humbles you without saying a word.
Cyclist’s tip:
If you ever want to avoid endless climbs, follow rivers or railways. That’s what I did – river on the left, tracks on the right. That’s usually the safest bet to stay out of the steepest hells.
A Tunnel and a Pulse Spike
Just before sunset, my navigation app decided to spice things up – a 900-meter tunnel! I went through, heart pounding, lights on, praying no truck would appear behind me. At the end, a parked police car. Empty. Silent. I slipped past like a ghost on wheels.
Demir Kapija Municipality. Tonight, I’m camping for ten euros. Cheap, quiet, and under the stars.
Tomorrow, the real Macedonian adventure begins. Maybe the wind will finally change sides. Or maybe not.
Hidden facts: North Macedonia (from the saddle, not the guidebook)
💧 Springs of memory – Almost every village has a stone water spring. Locals say they remember kindness: drink with respect, and they’ll never dry out.
🏚️ Ghost roads – In the hills, some roads pass by abandoned Orthodox monasteries. At night, people say you can still see candlelight flickering in the windows.
🚴 Tunnel roulette – Many Macedonian tunnels have no lights or sidewalks. Cyclists pass through on adrenaline, with phones strapped as headlights.
🍷 Wine as a welcome – Around Gevgelija, it’s rude to ask for directions without accepting a glass of homemade wine first.
