Exploring Greece by Bike. After weeks on the saddle, I reached Thessaloniki, explored Greek mountains, natural hot springs, and began my northbound journey along EuroVelo 11.
Romance on the Beach and the Harsh Reality of Hills
Day 30: No need for an alarm. I wake up to the sunrise over the lifeguard hut on the beach. Even though Pamela wasn’t there, it’s beautiful and romantic – mornings like this stick with you forever.
Today’s ride: just 80 kilometers to Thessaloniki. I wanted to see this port with my own eyes – a historic crossroads, the place where Saints Cyril and Methodius arrived in the region. The route was windy, but the biggest surprise awaited me just before the city: a short but brutally steep hill. I pushed the bike for nearly two kilometers. My limits reminded me it was time for a break.
So in Thessaloniki, I’m taking two days off to rest and relax on the beach, recharge my batteries, and then head north toward Northern Macedonia.
Thessaloniki
Hidden Greece Facts – Thessaloniki:
- Unexpected climbs: Many think the coast is flat – in reality, even short stretches can be punishingly steep.
- Historical layers: Beneath the streets lie Roman and Byzantine ruins often skipped by guidebooks.
- Local hospitality: In suburban areas, locals may spontaneously invite you for coffee or offer fresh fruit.
Rest and the Sound of the Sea
Days 31–32: Two days of rest work wonders. After weeks of cycling, sitting on the beach and listening to the waves is priceless. Off-season brings tranquility: no crowds, no loud vendors, just the sound of the sea.
At night, occasional rain adds atmosphere, but it’s not disturbing – it only enhances the experience. I spent the days regenerating and checking the bike: chain maintenance, tire inspection, and prepping for the next climbs.
Hidden Greece Facts – off-season:
- Night soundtrack: After dark, the coast hums with the wind, distant fishing boats, and the subtle clink of cleaning trays – a completely different rhythm from the tourist season.
- Private beaches: Off-season, you often have the shore to yourself, perfect for quiet evening recovery after a long day in the saddle.
Car, Mountains, and EuroVelo 11
Day 33: Just lying on the beach isn’t enough for me. I traded rest for exploring the Greek mountains. Left my bike for two days, I rented a car (only €9/day!), and set off into the hills.
I did light hiking, discovered hidden waterfalls, and enjoyed a bath in a natural thermal spring – pure Greek nature bliss.
Leventochóri, Kilkis. The road calls: NORTH! I made my way toward the border with Northern Macedonia. My route is clear: I’m following EuroVelo 11 north. This route, known as the Eastern Europe route, starts here and stretches all the way to northern Europe, passing through Slovakia near Košice.
Greece by Bike. Now on the official EV route, I hope to meet more cyclists and share experiences. Time to explore the Balkans.
Hidden Greece Facts – mountains & EV11:
- Hidden thermal springs: Most tourists stick to main roads, but off-road valleys hide almost-empty natural hot springs.
- EuroVelo 11 reality check: Signage exists, but parts of the route use local roads without bike lanes – perfect for authentic villages and pastures.
- Local hospitality: In mountain villages, locals may spontaneously welcome you, offer refreshments, or show hidden trails.
