Welcome aboard our six-day adventure through the Aeolian Islands! For us, it was an unforgettable voyage full of islands, active volcanoes, black beaches, and unique experiences. As enthusiastic amateur sailors, we set out to explore the Aeolian Islands. Vulcano was among our first destinations.
A Bad Idea in Naples
However, everything started much earlier. With an almost 24-hour car journey (never again) interrupted by occasional brilliant ideas from the Crew. The first genius idea came in the Gulf of Naples. After 16 hours of non-stop driving, at four in the morning, someone thought of climbing Vesuvius to look into the crater at sunrise. Don’t do it.
We wound our way through Naples (where the garbage collectors were on strike) to the access road, and then for more than an hour, we navigated serpentine roads narrower than shoelaces to reach the parking lot at Vesuvius. Couldn’t see anything, not even a step ahead, it was 5 AM, and a sign showed the trail to the craters: 50 minutes walk. We were supposed to pick up the boat in Sicily at 10 AM.
We relieved ourselves at a lonely fence, got back in the cars, and went back. If the uphill journey tested our clutches, the downhill trip with loaded cars tested our brake linings. We barely made it in time to pick up the boat.
Sicily: Capo d’Orlando and Boat Pickup
Our main expedition began in the picturesque port of Capo d’Orlando on Sicily’s northern coast. To this day, I associate this port with tomatoes. There was a man on the corner with crates offering tomatoes for €5. I call Zdeno: “buy one”.
Zdeno came back with a crate of sicilian tomatoes. €5 wasn’t for a kilo but for the whole crate. I’ve never eaten better tomatoes in my life.
We eagerly took possession of our yacht, which would become our home for the next six days. We thoroughly checked the equipment, loaded supplies, and with maps in hand, we set sail towards the Aeolian Islands.
Did you know that the Aeolian Islands are also known as the Lipari Islands? They’re named after Aeolus, the god of winds in Greek mythology. This area is indeed famous for its winds. For us, they presented a challenge to manage the entire journey under sail, which we almost succeeded in doing. I’ve been forbidden to write about the other winds caused by the tomatoes.
Vulcano
Our first destination, the island of Vulcano, which gave its name to all volcanoes, greeted us with an imposing view of the smoking Gran Cratere volcano. It immediately captivated us with its sulfur, black sand, and rugged beauty.
But what surprised us the most were the strange features at the bottom of the crater.
Climbing Gran Cratere Volcano
As enthusiastic hikers, we set out to climb Gran Cratere right after anchoring. The journey up was challenging, but each step rewarded us with breathtaking views. At the summit, we were met with a panorama that takes your breath away – surrounding islands bathed in an azure sea, while beneath us lay a fascinating crater caldera.
Tip for hikers: The ascent takes about an hour and a half and is moderately difficult. Don’t forget to wear sturdy shoes, bring plenty of water, and use sunscreen. Also, bring a scarf if you want to go around the entire crater. The fumes are hard to breathe. Set out early in the morning when temperatures are more pleasant and there aren’t many people.
Healing Mud and Black Beaches
After descending from the peak, we decided to try the natural baths. These sulfurous pools are known for their healing effects on the skin. Despite the intense smell, it was a unique experience we couldn’t miss. Even Olomouc cheese can’t compete with that stench.
We ended the day at Spiaggia delle Sabbie Nere, known for its black volcanic sand. Swimming in crystal clear water with a view of the majestic volcano was the perfect conclusion to our first day. The black sand on Vulcano’s beaches is made up of tiny particles of lava and volcanic ash. A natural foot peeling!
Volcanic Bombs: A Unique Phenomenon of Vulcano
We have also discovered a fascinating geological phenomenon – volcanic spheres. These perfectly round rock formations, some as big as a soccer ball, were formed by volcanic activity. Naturally, one must have ended up on our yacht and then in the garden.
First sleep on a rocking boat. If you have the boat tied up against a buoy outside the harbour, you don’t get much sleep as a beginner. Tomorrow we have a crossing to another of the Aeolian Islands, Panarea.
