I start at Aphrodite Bath, the legendary spot where the goddess of love is said to have bathed before meeting Adonis. Though, judging by the atmosphere, the main attraction here isn’t mythology—it’s the unmistakable smell of cannabis straw – a herbal inspiration in the air. Clever start point to Adonis & Aphrodite Trail.
Aphrodite Bath
The water changes color depending on the light, shifting from deep green to crystal blue. I dip my hand in the cool water. Legend has it that bathing here grants eternal youth. Sounds good to me. I dive in completely. Unfortunately, when I climb out, I’m still just… me. And Aphrodite is nowhere in sight—only an aging hippie in a thong.
Though the Bath of Aphrodite is just a small cave lagoon with fresh water, the real treasures lie along the coast. The nearby beach is not your typical sandy paradise but a rugged cove with crystal-clear water, perfect for snorkeling. If you’re lucky, you might spot turtles and other fascinating marine life. It’s not a place for sun loungers, but if you love wild beaches and an untamed vibe, you’ll be in heaven.
Adonis Trail
I start my ascent along the Adonis Trail, winding through canyons and pine forests, rich with the scent of resin and warm earth. Soon, I reach the highest point of the peninsula, Moutti Tis Sotiras (370 m). The view is breathtaking—the entire western coast of Cyprus stretches below me, where bays and cliffs dissolve into the horizon.
The wind whispers constantly, as if sharing ancient secrets. The only company I have are the goats, who seem to be just as intrigued by me as I am by them.
Aphrodite Trail
The way back follows the Aphrodite Trail, hugging the coastline where waves crash against rocky reefs. I walk in silence, my footsteps setting the rhythm.
Then, out of nowhere, I stumble upon the Pyrgos tis Rigainas—the Ruins of the Queen’s Tower. Just a few crumbling walls, long abandoned. Who was she? Why was this place built? Adonis & Aphrodite Trail means spectacular vieas without crowds.
Akamas Reefs
Back at the coast, the sea is calm. I step into the water and swim towards the open horizon. Beneath the surface, fish dart past, and maybe—just maybe—I catch a glimpse of the famous sea turtles known to frequent these waters. Or maybe it’s just the play of light. Or my imagination.
Not far from the Bath of Aphrodite, I stumble upon a pomegranate orchard. The fruits are huge, red, almost glowing, as if they’ve ripened on a divine banquet table. I pick one, split it open, and let the juice run down my fingers. It’s sweet, tart, full of life. And at that moment, I know—I’ll have to return to Cyprus.
Maybe for apples, maybe for Stavros. Or for the goats. Maybe for the trails and the sea. By the way, do you know the legend of Stavros?
